Thread: Hone of the Day

Early Filarmonica Doble Temple JMP 14 beautiful with original white scales and a blue wedge.

NOS Hayashi Diamond.
Very easy to hone, from bevel set to strop in about 25 mins. You know you're onto something special when it tree tops arm hair after 5 mins on the 1k.
Didn't even bother test shaving after the 10k, straight on to the Gok 20k.

Gave a wonderful shave.

Son ofa...... yeash! Took a Boker King Cutter 5/8" through its paces using two of the Nagura stone slurrys and finally a diamond plate slurry made from the Jnat itself through to clear water.... I can't remember what I did to the Boker... it had a super sharp edge a while ago (diamond pasted benchstrop finish), but I found it a tad harsh. Then..... it was one of those moments where I did something to the edge, and it would no longer catch hair, never mind cut them without using a cutting board. So today, it was about 30 laps with each of the two Nagura slurries and then about 40 laps while diluting the diamond plate slurry and she is as sharp as she was off the diamond bench strop. As for smoothness, I'm going to have to do a shave test tomorrow to see... but I'm pretty confident it will be good.

I also took my Clauss directly from a 1K Naniwa bevel set, and while it worked, I'm not happy with the sharpness... I should have moved on to the 3K Naniwa first (or perhaps my bevel wasn't quite there yet) and then to the Jnat, or perhaps I should have spent more time on the slurries. This stone is shorter than my usual 8" hones and so I may just be asking too much from one round trip on the hone.

Here's what it looks like, sitting on my Shapton stone holder:




For the record, I'm super happy with this hone.... My first Jnat, and while I'm sure there may be nicer, not to mention larger hones available, I cannot fault this little stone... It has a great feel while honing and seems to be able to handle just about anything within reason. No... it's no Ol' sloppy as some call the 1K Naniwa, but it's close with the Naguras, and it is a great midrange + finisher, all by itself. I think my biggest problem is going to be NOT buying more Jnats.

So thanks again to Garret, aka Jnats, for steering me towards this particular stone, which was in my budget range.

All I have left to do is grow some beard so I can shave test the edge.... My infamous "moustache test" was passed with flying colors. Some guys use head hair for testing (I'm bald) and arm hair (my arms are near bald) so for me, it's a matter of feeling how the edge catches my moustache hairs and then how much it tugs when cutting them. The edge on the Boker grabs those hairs like a pair of pliers, but severs them so lightly, I hardly feel it.... After stropping, it feels even more grabby, yet no change for the worse when cutting.

Regards

Christian aka

Kaptain "Sometimes ya just gotta do whatcha gotta do, when honing and testing razors" Zero

The Hess 44 is a certain type of steel and temper that may require a different approach.
The scales do not match the blade. Bevel set no tape on Chosera 1K with slurry.


Here is a work horse coticule. Used with slurry and diluted down.


Progress to a man-made coticule with lather (reference the “Bubbling Coticule” thread some years back). This is a slow stone to work with, extended laps are required.


Final finish is on the Whittle Hill Charnley Forest oil stone 75-100 laps. Works well with “Stain Less” steel. Really nice edge, Hope the owner enjoys. Mike

Really nice edge after the clean up and honing on this Rex

Chosera 1-5-10 Then went with an actual Thuringen slurry from a "Rubber" did 20 laps and diluted out after that to almost clear water yielding a velvet smooth feel on my face...

This was definitely the "shaver" of the day





Hone On Gentlemen

Finished honing a worn kamisori on a Narutaki scalpel hone. This one was given to me to play with and was my first kamisori hone. The omote was badly worn and I reground it on a plastic bottle with sandpaper starting at 80 grit. That turned out surprisingly well for a first effort, but of course you cannot replace soft iron that isn't there anymore - except in this case with 3 layers of tape on the omote side. It shaved well, so mission accomplished for a noob to kamisori.

Cheers, Steve

Love me some Kamisori honing way to go Steve


I had one on the hones last night too


Interesting story

I always check razors when they come in by the numbers for me

So I check this Kamisori and it cuts armhair pretty good, I think to myself Dang not a bad edge maybe just a touch-up..

Look under the loupe and note that about 1/4" at the heel the bevel fades out, and the point is a tiny bit "off" so I say oh well I will tweak it in and get that evened up then work my way up..

Needless to say after the first few laps on the 1k, I find that the bevel isn't fully set, which was why it was "pully"

Chosera 1k and I pull the bevel back into line, then move up the progression ending on the Nakayama

I find it quite meditative to hone them..





Honing to a Clear Mind bahahahaha

Thanks Glen,

I don't know how you hone one of these with an iron omote without wearing it away over time - most of the used ones I see have heavy spine wear and 1/8" wide or wider bevels on the omote side.

When I got it, I put it on a 5k stone for a few laps and determined that if I set the bevel sans tape I would have no hollow at all on the omote side however careful I was - partially due to the wear already present. So since this was an experiment and learning excercise, I re-ground the omote pretty sucessfully, Sharpied the bevel and started adding tape until I thought I could get a somewhat normal width bevel.

So how do you keep the iron from wearing too much, is it just another muscle memory thing? I believe if I had a new one, I'd probably tape the omote with a very thin tape like Kapton until I had it shave ready and when it needed rehoning, pull the tape and do maybe an 8k plus finisher? I'm in new territory here!

Cheers, Steve

I don't... I use Tape

Unless a customer specifically asks for NO TAPE!!!! I use tape and even then I often set the hard bevel (1k level) with tape first, then bring it back without tape at the 5k (mid) level to keep the wear to a minimum

You are doing exactly what I would have done too, if the steel is worn away use a couple of pennies worth of tape to adjust the geometry back to correct and proceed, even it all up and enjoy the shaves..

Here's a shot of the bottle-reground omote and the bevel width. It isn't like new, but this one was 'rode hard and put up wet' when I got it and my first try.

Cheers, Steve