Thread: Hone of the Day

Looks great Steve, nice job!

Originally Posted by Steve56

I don't know how you hone one of these with an iron omote without wearing it away over time - most of the used ones I see have heavy spine wear and 1/8" wide or wider bevels on the omote side.

If the cosmetics of large bevels is of concern, use tape. Japanese tools,tho, wa-kamisori included, are all intended to be used right down to a stub so even with a lot of hone wear they may shave quite well with restoration. I did a few Iwasaki's recently that were so worn I would have rejected them if from any other maker but even with the resultant large bevels they shaved as only an Iwasaki tamahagane razor can.

Needless to say, it's crucial to keep the pressure on the edge & the knife & tool technique of using fingertip pressure on the edge will help if used correctly.

One rough old W&B but hey, it shaves well now. Started with a pretty big chip in the blade and I am just learning to hone so I'm proud of the results.

Needless to say, it's crucial to keep the pressure on the edge & the knife & tool technique of using fingertip pressure on the edge will help if used correctly.[/QUOTE]

See starting out, and just reading, I cannot express in greater degree of importance the amount of pressure mentioned here. My wide bevels are a result of not heeding this crucial information. Thank goodness for this post and Glenns mention of torque, as opposed to just pressure alone.

This came in today the UK TSR pass around razor it had a small chip near the toe that was easily removed using the Chosera 5K then finally finished on the SG 20K.

When discussing pressure while honing, for myself, the internet is a hard medium to pass knowledge on. When reading I hear about using "light" pressure so then I use what I consider light. When I have met people that I consider knowledgeable and see them in person I think what they use is at the least medium light to medium pressure if not more.

I am not complaining or wanting to start a disagreement and think that to light is better. It is just that I think that this is a very personal thing and hard to convey in writing.

Back to the hone of the day. Here is my latest. On each side of the strop is a man made hone. reminds me of a barber hone or one found in a Rolls Razor. Thin. They seem very course after lapping using my pocket knife as a test. I think that I may have removed to much of the matrix and expose very course abrasive. I have thought about starting another thread with these questions!

The after pictures are first.

No disagreement at all. I learn so much from meets. Back in the day it was called an apprenticeship. Pressure is like trying to convey a smidge, skoosh, thundercrush. Scratches up the blade past the bevel are a sign of too much pressure, Dont ask me how I know.

Filly Cmon, Chosera 1,5K Snow White, met a little FeOx. No micro-chipping. Feel like I cheated on my naturals.

Something that helped define pressure, I learned by teaching at the Meets, might help here also, I have said it before but maybe some haven't read it...


The Bevel and the Razor can determine the pressure needed

When you push the razor down the hone watch the ripple of water/slurry at the front of the edge, that little wave of water determines the pressure, it really does..
If that wave disappears under the edge you are no longer honing the edge, you are honing behind it and doing nothing good apply more pressure and torque..
If the wave is in front of the edge you are running fine..

Now comes the cool part, as the very front of the edge gets Thinner (Sharper) the water will start to ride up on the blade face (Undercutting) if you lighten up on the pressure the wave will move back down toward the front of the edge...

Try and ride that wave and keep it at the front of the edge and it will automatically adjust the pressure for you

I know, I know, sounds way too simple doesn't...

Torque is also a factor here that needs to be addressed, it is hardly ever mentioned except by me and Randydance, we talk about it at the meets and even can show you the little dents in our thumbs and fingers that form from applying torque when honing..
Basically it is a learned skill but you do want to be torquing the razor as you are honing toward the edge, just how much torque, you have to learn, but again watch the wave it will help you adjust..


Hope that helps somebody

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Something that helped define pressure I learned by teaching at the Meets, might help here also, I have said it before but maybe some haven't read it...
...snip...
Now comes the cool part, as the very front of the edge gets Thinner (Sharper) the water will start to ride up on the blade face (Undercutting) if you lighten up on the pressure the wave will move back down toward the front of the edge...

I know, I know, sounds way too simple doesn't...
...snip...
Hope that helps somebody

Glen has the right of it.
My addition:
I watch for the "clear" water to be at the edge during the stroke, and I can see the bevel through it, with the slurry connected to it and showing above it on the blade.
~Richard