Thread: What are you working on?

Told ya there were some cool cuts in there... Didn't I. [emoji56]

Bingo! Money shot!

Originally Posted by outback

Most definitely.
Once it starts hitting, its coming out.!
As well as the other one I have around here, in the rotation "pile". It needs proper scales, too.

Is this the one that needs scales? I can get the ball rolling on that with the red acrylic I have. Still have the templates from the Otto too, I think they are the right size.

Quick question or opinions, does scale material wood primarily have to be stabilized? I have some pine I know boring, left over and was going to make scales with it if anything just temporarily and I'm wondering if it will work as is? If it's just a waste of time then I'll only do it as practice.

Originally Posted by xiaotuzi

Is this the one that needs scales? I can get the ball rolling on that with the red acrylic I have. Still have the templates from the Otto too, I think they are the right size.

That one and this one.

Their almost hitting now.

Then Tom showed one that's stuck in the scales, too.

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

Quick question or opinions, does scale material wood primarily have to be stabilized? I have some pine I know boring, left over and was going to make scales with it if anything just temporarily and I'm wondering if it will work as is? If it's just a waste of time then I'll only do it as practice.

Not all, but pine is quite soft. So stabilizing would help.
Cut at a slight angle to the grain, then dyed n stabilized, would yield a wild look.!

Originally Posted by outback

Not all, but pine is quite soft. So stabilizing would help.
Cut at a slight angle to the grain, then dyed n stabilized, would yield a wild look.!

I figured pine was not the best option, I think I'll mostly go at it for practice. Scale making and wedges. I have plenty to keep me busy but wanting to break the cycle of daily grind. Thanks Mike, just remembered I also have a small limb of walnut I was saving back for a spoon rest. Hmmm

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

Quick question or opinions, does scale material wood primarily have to be stabilized? I have some pine I know boring, left over and was going to make scales with it if anything just temporarily and I'm wondering if it will work as is? If it's just a waste of time then I'll only do it as practice.

Depends on the condition of the wood. If it's spalted (got fungus that makes it pretty) you need to kill the fungus -- baking it at 225 F for a while will do that. If it's punky, it definitely needs to be stabilized. For something as thin as scales you might not even need a vacuum setup.

Solid wood that's had a chance to dry may be quite stable if it has straight grain. But if it has crazy grain you probably want to plane to close to your desired thickness and let it sit around a little to see if it develops a twist or a bend. You can then replane. Highly figured wood like crotch wood may be reaction wood -- when cut out it's liable to warp or split, so cutting close to what you want first, giving it some time, then doing final cuts is better.

With pine, especially home center dimensional lumber, watch out for the pith -- the center of the tree. You get a lot of warping around that. You can quartersaw dimensional lumber, especially fir or cedar, and get some really pretty pieces with pronounced figure.

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by jmabuse

Depends on the condition of the wood. If it's spalted (got fungus that makes it pretty) you need to kill the fungus -- baking it at 225 F for a while will do that. If it's punky, it definitely needs to be stabilized. For something as thin as scales you might not even need a vacuum setup.

Solid wood that's had a chance to dry may be quite stable if it has straight grain. But if it has crazy grain you probably want to plane to close to your desired thickness and let it sit around a little to see if it develops a twist or a bend. You can then replane. Highly figured wood like crotch wood may be reaction wood -- when cut out it's liable to warp or split, so cutting close to what you want first, giving it some time, then doing final cuts is better.

With pine, especially home center dimensional lumber, watch out for the pith -- the center of the tree. You get a lot of warping around that. You can quartersaw dimensional lumber, especially fir or cedar, and get some really pretty pieces with pronounced figure.

Hope this helps!

Wow thank you, the wood I have far as pine is 1x4 trim just flat pieces. I'm going to use some for a seven day set box or a couple boxes then was going to use scraps for scales. Are you saying I should try baking this first?

Originally Posted by outback

That one and this one.

Their almost hitting now.

Then Tom showed one that's stuck in the scales, too.

Har! I stole that pic off the internets, but I have taken the 'Holy Hacksaw Blade' to the inside of the wedge on mine till I am into the pin!

These are rounded on the wedge end.
I could almost sent Tuzi mine and have him duplicate them...Plus about 3/8 inch!
THEN, sent them up to Mike with the originals for the good stuff.

This is gonna cost me!