get a comfy chair JP5 that frown is gonna take a bit of time, then to set the bevel. Marathon honing!
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get a comfy chair JP5 that frown is gonna take a bit of time, then to set the bevel. Marathon honing!
You can get the same oxidizing action, but much stronger than drugstore peroxide, by putting sodium percarbonate powder in water. Safe for your septic system, and non toxic when it's done its job. I use it for lots of stuff, like cleaning coffee stains etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by engine46
Thanks I will have to look into this further.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmabuse
I'd be sanding/ grinding that down nice and flat first, than throw a new edge on.
Oh how I wish it was that simple!!! I do hope things go well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wightman
Yeah, they were consistent though! I need honing lessons (and a good set of stones!) so I can't judge too harshly.Quote:
Originally Posted by 32t
You would think when someone starts getting a frown in their blade they might try changing their technique. I wouldn't have minded if they left off the X.
When I first looked at it I didn't think it was worth touching, but a second look and I realized it didn't have a heel to impede raising the bevel like a lot of blades do.
I just bought some other razors too so it may be a while before I get to this one. I'll try to post an update though.
Some scales that I'm working on. Unfortunately I do not get to keep these ones, they are for a friend who had given me the material (a moose antler). Moose antler and real MOP.
Still needs a bit of touching up, a bit of wet sanding and more varathane. A bit of die bled onto the one piece of pearl as you can see as well. So I'm going to have to try to fix that.
What's your final thickness going to be on those scales? Never used mop so no idea how to remove the bled dye.
Look forward to seeing the finished work..
I know they are relatively thick, but I think I'm going to leave them where they are. Could work them down from the inside a bit thinner, but I wanted to try to keep the thickness of the pearl and the material the same where they are joined. They sit at approx. 2.5mm as they are now. The pearl cleans up nice, doesn't really take to staining so I should be able to just buff it right off there. I wanted to have a nice decent thickness though so they will be less likely to break during use, or accidental dropping or squeezing. And I thought the pearl would be quite fragile to breaking but it's actually quite strong. I had to file most of the way through it to purposely break it. So I think I should be fine using a good 1mm-1.5mm thickness for a full scale. Mind you I'm sure on a longer piece it will be more prone to breakage, but I was certainly surprised bow hard it was to break it with scoring it. And I know a lot of people will frown at this because it's not conventional and seems cheap, but no stains etc. would seem to take to the antler as I was looking for, as it is now. They would simply fill the small pits and that's it. Or just rub right off. So here I had used a permanent marker (not the purple Hugh, you have to be careful) but I know would also be prone to rubbing off with use and what not, so this is why I am giving it a nice varathane coating to hopefully keep it all in place.
You guys think I should keep working it down from the inside tho eh? Still a bit too thick.
probably should , their thick enough for a knife at this stage Tc