Thread: What are you working on?

One thing about it, Tim. The things will make hot lather for EVERYONE!

Just showed the pic to the wife and explained it to her and she didnt fall for the wedge o'matic. Damn, now i feel really dumb. Guess ill.continue making them by hand.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Here we go! A Celebrated German Concave! Bit short...
Into the outback box it goes!

Attachment 275759

Aww, that will look sweet in some bog oak, shoe's.

So my blade was WAY off-center as I test-fit it. Checked it on a flat surface with the thumb pressing down on the pivot point. Yep. Tang and blade are not the same on both sides.



Not wanting to grind on the tang, I did something I have done before on bone scales.
If the scales were horn or plastic. lots of things could be done.

However, bone does not bend much, so altering the angle of the tang is necessary somehow.
Some grind on the scales, etc. Easy to take it off. Hard to put it back.

I did what I have done several times before with success. I roughed-up and CA'd some thickish brass spacers to the insides of the pivot holes and cranked them down with microscrews to set.



Then, sanding the washers at opposite angles on each scale to send the tang/blade over.
Some thin spacers to keep the tang off the scales as it is opened fully.
No matter how you do this the victory is the blade closing center.
The tradeoff is it will be a bit wonkey as-opened. Got to make certain the tang will not hit the top scale and the tail will not hit the opposite one as-opened.



Oh well. Nothing seems to go easy for me!
Time to pick some collars. Am leaning toward Austin's basic silver ones.
Will do some mocking-up of some others too.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

So my blade was WAY off-center as I test-fit it. Checked it on a flat surface with the thumb pressing down on the pivot point. Yep. Tang and blade are not the same on both sides.



Not wanting to grind on the tang, I did something I have done before on bone scales.
If the scales were horn or plastic. lots of things could be done.

However, bone does not bend much, so altering the angle of the tang is necessary somehow.
Some grind on the scales, etc. Easy to take it off. Hard to put it back.

I did what I have done several times before with success. I roughed-up and CA'd some thickish brass spacers to the insides of the pivot holes and cranked them down with microscrews to set.



Then, sanding the washers at opposite angles on each scale to send the tang/blade over.
Some thin spacers to keep the tang off the scales as it is opened fully.
No matter how you do this the victory is the blade closing center.
The tradeoff is it will be a bit wonkey as-opened. Got to make certain the tang will not hit the top scale and the tail will not hit the opposite one as-opened.



Oh well. Nothing seems to go easy for me!
Time to pick some collars. Am leaning toward Austin's basic silver ones.
Will do some mocking-up of some others too.

With horn scales, I just bake the razor and scales in the toaster oven at 210 degrees for 45 minutes. Fixes'em right up!

Have you tried that with bone or ivory, Zak?
I don't have the guts!

Originally Posted by Voidmonster

I am apparently in FBU mode.

Why does that matter? Because the tube is sturdy enough that I can stick it in a vise.

Tomorrow I'm cutting one of those perfect impressions out, drilling out my last mess, then gluing the perfect impression into the damned tube.

THEN I can try and make washers with this preposterous setup.

Hey Zach, try spraying your wedges with a bit of cooking spray before making your impressions, can wipe them clean with acetone after the jb cures.
Also the stuff may be setting up quicker in the pipe than in free air due to the concentration in the pipe generating heat quicker than a smaller amount free in hand. Heat=cure and all.
Neat way to make wedge molds, I may borrow that idea buddy!

Just my $.02 sir.

Originally Posted by Gasman

That edge sure looks straight. Now to match the curve of the spine, as the edge and spine should match. Nice job on correcting so far.

Now that I've looked at some similar Filarmonica 13 razors, they seem to have pretty straight edges. I don't know if this needs much/any smile to it.

.

I only have a 14 and the edge matches the spine. If its straight that will be fine but as someone else pointed out. A stra8ght edge is the closest point to a frown. Or something like that. Its yours and if your happy with the edge is all that matters. No need to make it smile if you dont want too. Many razors have straight edges.

Otay...After what seems like bolting and unbolting 20 times, I am satisfied.

Swapping different wedges and even trying a spacer showed me a lot of my multiple issues after donning my 'Lord Dork' visor so I could actually see them.
My slanted outer spacers were not as effective until I oversized the pivot holes to 5/64.
The pin was too tight in the scales to 'lean' with my angles.

My angles were a lot overdone after this and some sanding a bit at a time of the angle out made the blade move over almost perfectly. It also kept the tail and tang off the scales quite a lot. I learned by 'bending' the scales with tapered wedges that one of my scales would naturally bow more than the other during closing causing the tang to be pushed-over on one side too much. Sanding the one scale where the tang contacted it as-closing did that trick. So after unassembling, sand sand sand on the scale and the spacers many times and reassembling, checking fit, it all got there. Thank Goodness!



So mocking-up some collars. Austin's regular silver ones are always winners.
His stainless domes look nice, a bit 'Sheffieldy', though.

Also have some bigs and littles from the fellow in Europe. Kindof fancy them for these scales. Any opinions?