Thread: What are you working on?

"SUPERIOR RAZORS" seven day set by Joseph Rodgers & Sons. Working on this set for a friend. I'm debating what to do to clean up the etchings on top of the spines. They have some rust but the etchings are very light. I'm thinking mild chemical rust remover followed by hand polishing for the spines and the rest will go on the buffs. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by BeJay

"SUPERIOR RAZORS" seven day set by Joseph Rodgers & Sons. Working on this set for a friend. I'm debating what to do to clean up the etchings on top of the spines. They have some rust but the etchings are very light. I'm thinking mild chemical rust remover followed by hand polishing for the spines and the rest will go on the buffs. Any suggestions?

I would suggest to start 'high' then slowly go lower in your abrasives.

I'd start with some Mothers Mag Wheel Polish and a tooth brush. You'd be surprised at what that can do. You would also be surprised with what plain old baking soda will accomplish.

I would highly recommend staying away from Any Rust Removal Chemical Cleaners!

Keep us posted on your wonderful collection.

Remember you can always go lower but if you start too low then you could mess up any etchings and once they're gone, they're GONE! I'd rather leave a little history then to lose those etchings.

JMO
Do Not try and restore thos blades,Preserve them.

Originally Posted by WW243

Dude, it's an arrow rest.

Dude, it's not an arrow rest! That is just what I was told in an antique shop by a lady that did not know what she was talking about...of course I had to pass the faulty information on. Strangely, the jade thing even had a groove in it.

Alot of the thumbrings have a raised ledge that the bowstring rests on so it doesn't rest on the finger itself. You lock your thumb with your index finger to make it easier to pull the string back and the ring allows the bowstring to snap forward with little resistance. Longbows and shortbows they work nice with since there isn't any let off like with compound bows. It is actually easier to pull back with one once you get the hang of it and it saves alot of strain on the other fingers.

Originally Posted by JSmith1983

Alot of the thumbrings have a raised ledge that the bowstring rests on so it doesn't rest on the finger itself. You lock your thumb with your index finger to make it easier to pull the string back and the ring allows the bowstring to snap forward with little resistance. Longbows and shortbows they work nice with since there isn't any let off like with compound bows. It is actually easier to pull back with one once you get the hang of it and it saves alot of strain on the other fingers.

That is the way I learned it also.
~Richard

[QUOTE=BeJay;1526028]"SUPERIOR RAZORS" seven day set by Joseph Rodgers & Sons. Working on this set for a friend. I'm debating what to do to clean up the etchings on top of the spines. They have some rust but the etchings are very light. I'm thinking mild chemical rust remover followed by hand polishing for the spines and the rest will go on the buffs. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

JMO
Do Not try and restore thos blades,Preserve them.

I think I would agree with Bill on those. Maybe just clean the rust off & leave 'em be. I have some old ones that I prefer to keep them original looking & one of them is my smiling Fredericks I have here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/show-...0s-estate.html

Originally Posted by MikeB52

I would love a few lengths of railway track as well. Want to make a couple of anvils and maybe a treadle hammer. Sadly all the tracks around here seem connected. lol.
Going to have to scrounge the wrecking yards I think.
Happy Saturday gents.

Do you know anybody who works with the railway? My family has a cabin on a lake near Kenora that is beside the main CNR line. Most of the original cabins were built there in the 20-40ss by CNR workers, and a good majority of the families there still have rail links. You wouldn't believe the quantity of rail material that has 'fallen off a train' at or very near to the lake. Lots of cabins rest on foundations of ties, have CNR dishes and cutlery in the kitchen, plenty of rail jacks to raise cabins for foundation repair, etc... etc., etc... There are also quite a few bits of rail kicking around the place, used as everything from bookends to door stops to anvils. I suspect most of those goodies were liberated many decades ago as I'd be willing to bet the companies are much less tolerant of such things these days. But if you know anyone with old connections like that, they may know where there is a piece kicking around.

So I'm not suggesting that all rail employees have sticky fingers, just that if you know people who know people, a chunk of rail might find its way to you.

(for the record, my Dad is retired RCMP so our property is a loot-free zone )

Originally Posted by Cangooner

Do you know anybody who works with the railway? My family has a cabin on a lake near Kenora that is beside the main CNR line. Most of the original cabins were built there in the 20-40ss by CNR workers, and a good majority of the families there still have rail links. You wouldn't believe the quantity of rail material that has 'fallen off a train' at or very near to the lake. Lots of cabins rest on foundations of ties, have CNR dishes and cutlery in the kitchen, plenty of rail jacks to raise cabins for foundation repair, etc... etc., etc... There are also quite a few bits of rail kicking around the place, used as everything from bookends to door stops to anvils. I suspect most of those goodies were liberated many decades ago as I'd be willing to bet the companies are much less tolerant of such things these days. But if you know anyone with old connections like that, they may know where there is a piece kicking around.

So I'm not suggesting that all rail employees have sticky fingers, just that if you know people who know people, a chunk of rail might find its way to you.

(for the record, my Dad is retired RCMP so our property is a loot-free zone )

Cangooner, that's some good information for those who might be in that area.................or even for those who have had family ties to working for a railroad.

Finally finished my anvil.
Started with 6" sander w/50 grit-80 grit.
Then a palm sander with a wet dry progression of 80,180,320,400,600.
Then a buffer with heavy rubbing compound, aluminum oxide chrome & metal polish, then by hand with flitz.