Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by JellyJar

So I'm using images of another Packwood blade posted on SRP as a guide for shape. I'm a little on the fence about the width of the scales on the wedge end. The dark upper line in the sketch is the width I'm leaning towards. Just below is a fainter line that I think is a little low. Might sneak up on something in the middle when I start final shaping. Going to use some tortoise Kirinte and some of AJkeene's wonderful brass flower collars. Going to go with a lead wedge and I'm toying with sandwiching it between some thin sheets of brass. Thoughts?

Attachment 305076

Why are you using another example for your pattern?

You are attempting to make custom scales..............

So did the Packwood not have scales or not have appropriate scales?
I’m not sure I would go with the point on the pivot end, however if that is what was original, I probably wood. I am not certain there is enough scale under the heal. It looks very close. You could make a mock up with cheap wood not fit for scales just to make sure it is all good before you push forward with your good material.

I would definitely mock it up with tongue depressors glued double up, (my go to for mock up).

I too think the pivot is a bit too long/pointed and wide. and the belly a bit thin. It may be uncomfortable to strop and shave. Though I know the design is similar original.

If you are looking to match original, then go for it, but now is the time to make any design changes. There are many good pics on this site of vintage Packwood and Sheffield’s of the time, that you can take measurements from for scale and pin placement.

Nice scale material is that Masecraft tort ice? If so, it is nice to work with, though a little floppy, polishes nicely.

Just dug a peanut out of my 2 yo daughter's nose!


She is in a much better mood now.

What a good dad.

32T - Post #4 on this thread https://sharprazorpalace.com/razors/...stubtails.html is what I'm using for a pattern.

Rezdog - No, original scales. They were pretty..umm..interesting. https://sharprazorpalace.com/show-te...f-my-list.html

Euclid 440 - Tongue depressor mock up will be my next step.

I think you're right about the width at the pivot and the edge being a bit close to the bottom of the scale. I'll make some adjustments.

Yes, I'm trying to replicate the shape of originals. You're pic is another great example of the scale pattern I'm going for. I haven't been getting measurements from the images on the site because they don't have rulers in the picture. I just realized I can size the image using the length of my blade...wow sometimes my brain is a bit slow.

The scale material is tortoise Kirinite I got from USA Knife maker (https://usaknifemaker.com/kirinite-t...-material.html). It's a bit thicker than I'd like at 3/16", so I'll need to do some thinning. I've seen other scales from Kirinite, but haven't worked with it before. I've heard it can be a bit brittle, so I'm hoping it will be ok with the flex when opening/closing the razor. If it can't handle the stress, I'll try a spacer instead of a wedge.

Thanks to all of you for your feedback. This will be the second set of razor scales I've made, so I'm still finding my way through the steps. Appreciate the help.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“Figure I'll burn a piece of 220/night and get there eventually.”

Not on an Ark. 60 grit loose Silicone Carbide, a steel cookie sheet and a smooth piece of cement floor will get you flat in 20-30 minutes. After that run up the grits and finish on Wet & Dry.

You only have to do it once, lots of good how to threads in the stones forum.

No way with 220.

I wasn't sure how aggressive I should be at the beginning. 220 is the coarsest wet/dry paper I've have. I got some progress in the first couple of minutes and just continued till that piece was done. I noticed some grayish slurry forming, but I suppose that could have been the paper dying. I don't have any 60 grit. Do you think 3M 80 grit with "sharp, synthetic minerals and strong resins" would get me there?

After the first couple of minutes


After first sheet

If thats an arkie you got a long way to go. Those thing are hard as hell!

The lower the grit the more aggressive, loose grit is more aggressive than sand paper. You have a high spot along the middle and all that and the edges will have to be removed before you get to the bottom of the low spots.

Do yourself a favor, GotGrit.com. (Grit and Pitch/ Silicone Carbide). For $15 you can get a ¼ pound assortment of 60-500 grit Silicon Carbide and get it to you in a couple days.

Get a Steel cookie sheet from the Dollar store and sprinkle a teaspoon on a wet cookie sheet on a flat cement floor. Use your body weight to make it flat, add ½ teaspoon as needed.

You can do it on sand paper, but you will be there a LOT longer and go through a LOT of sand paper.

Smoothing is easy, flat is work.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The lower the grit the more aggressive, loose grit is more aggressive than sand paper. You have a high spot along the middle and all that and the edges will have to be removed before you get to the bottom of the low spots.

Do yourself a favor, GotGrit.com. (Grit and Pitch/ Silicone Carbide). For $15 you can get a ¼ pound assortment of 60-500 grit Silicon Carbide and get it to you in a couple days.

Get a Steel cookie sheet from the Dollar store and sprinkle a teaspoon on a wet cookie sheet on a flat cement floor. Use your body weight to make it flat, add ½ teaspoon as needed.

You can do it on sand paper, but you will be there a LOT longer and go through a LOT of sand paper.

Smoothing is easy, flat is work.

Good advice, thanks.