Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by dkwflight

Please explain the Vaseline purpose.

The idea is to cure the barber hone after lapping by coating hone with Vaseline. For mine most of the Vaseline was absorbed overnight. I applied a second coat and left sit for a couple months. The cure helps seal the grain of hone backup after lapping I'm told. Sounded good so I'm doing it and did they turn out nice or what?

Sure they look nice but do you intend to use them?
I suppose they will be oil only after that.

Originally Posted by jmercer

The idea is to cure the barber hone after lapping by coating hone with Vaseline. For mine most of the Vaseline was absorbed overnight. I applied a second coat and left sit for a couple months. The cure helps seal the grain of hone backup after lapping I'm told. Sounded good so I'm doing it and did they turn out nice or what?

Very nice, they look brand new.
That must be why the instuctions on a Fast n Fine baber hone I found , said to use lather only and not water. Thankyou.

Originally Posted by dkwflight

Sure they look nice but do you intend to use them?
I suppose they will be oil only after that.

Yes. They are less expensive than a 10k or 12k finishing hone. I plan on using shaving lather. They will stay clean. From what I understand (haven't done it yet) water will have a coarser hone and the lather produces a finer hone.

Hi
I got curious about the play in my Wade & Butcher wedge razor.
I took it apart and found 14 gage copper wire was used as the rivet in the hinge.
I did not take any pics of the bare blade but the hole after cleaning would accept a 10 ga bare wire.
I ordered in a couple different kits for riveting scales on razors. The pins supplied are very small.
How are these small wires supposed to work. I think the resulting razor would be very sloppy.
The wire shown in the pic is a 10 gege wire.
I went ahead anf installed the scales with the 10 gage wire. It looks OK I guess.

If it works fer ya, it werks fer me.

Originally Posted by dkwflight

Hi
I got curious about the play in my Wade & Butcher wedge razor.
I took it apart and found 14 gage copper wire was used as the rivet in the hinge.
I did not take any pics of the bare blade but the hole after cleaning would accept a 10 ga bare wire.
I ordered in a couple different kits for riveting scales on razors. The pins supplied are very small.
How are these small wires supposed to work. I think the resulting razor would be very sloppy.
The wire shown in the pic is a 10 gege wire.
I went ahead anf installed the scales with the 10 gage wire. It looks OK I guess.

It is super common for the holes in old sheffeild blades to be a little sloppy. There are several methods to correct it if it really bothers you, however it has been like that for a very long time. You can use it as is, repine it with 1/16 rod and standard collars or go to bigger hardware, which I have never seen well executed or fill the hole by either using a two part metal filler of expoxying a brass tube with a 1/16" inside diameter. There is a tutorial in the workshop master sticky about this issue and resolving it. I believe sharptonn uses some kind of a rivet and the drills them out.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...zed-pivot.html

Hi
Thanks for your response.
If I decide to make scales I will keep your suggestion in mind

Originally Posted by dkwflight

Hi
I got curious about the play in my Wade & Butcher wedge razor.
I took it apart and found 14 gage copper wire was used as the rivet in the hinge.
I did not take any pics of the bare blade but the hole after cleaning would accept a 10 ga bare wire.
I ordered in a couple different kits for riveting scales on razors. The pins supplied are very small.
How are these small wires supposed to work. I think the resulting razor would be very sloppy.
The wire shown in the pic is a 10 gege wire.
I went ahead anf installed the scales with the 10 gage wire. It looks OK I guess.

When those razors were made the pivot was punched out while hot, not drilled, hence some pretty odd & large shapes.
It makes little difference to the range of movement as the scales are a friction fit on the sides of the tang.
You can of course force play into it & I believe that this is why there is such a large gap between the toe & the wedge in original scales but friction usually holds things mostly in place.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

When those razors were made the pivot was punched out while hot, not drilled, hence some pretty odd & large shapes.
It makes little difference to the range of movement as the scales are a friction fit on the sides of the tang.
You can of course force play into it & I believe that this is why there is such a large gap between the toe & the wedge in original scales but friction usually holds things mostly in place.

That is 100% correct.