Thread: What are you working on?

Sloan, those are nice looking scales. I really like streaked horn.

Jmabuse, that looks like a steep hill. I have not seen a razor with a spine like that. However there are many here with way more experience than me. I think I would start hat one with a bevel set. It will shoe you everything you need to know about the geometry and where the steel gets solid.

Great job with the horn scales, Sloan. You can see a nice even reflection in the surface, not wavy or wonky at all. Beautiful!

Working on the Tally Ho. Never had such an issue getting the pivot pin out. She will clean up nicely though.

This is 2k wet dry. Does this seem too shinny for this blade?

Looks good.

Originally Posted by ejmolitor37

This is 2k wet dry. Does this seem too shinny for this blade?

I don't think so. You've left some of the character and heritage, it's not like you've done as some do and over buff the blade to where it looks nothing like it did way back when.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Looks good.

Thank you. I went back to 1200 and I think I like it better. A bit more subdued...

Lovely finish, nice work!
~Richard

Originally Posted by mihai

Nice work, Thaeris, a nice way to use broken scales.
Is there a bowl of horn?

Originally Posted by RezDog

Thaeris, my wife likes those. Hopefully your friend is as impressed.

Originally Posted by MODINE

Very nice work and thoughtful Thaeris. I see some purple in there...possibly coober pedy black opal??
MIke

Thanks guys ! :-)

This is made from parts of a broken fan in tortoishell, silver and opal, as guessed Mike, but crystal from Ethiopia :-) (And there is indeed a horn bowl !)

The gift was delivered last evening, and well apprecied ! I was really happy.

The stone is blocked by the sup' part of shell, pinned on the other one with silver wire. It shouldn't move.

Jerry, when we do repair work on an edge, a lot of things can happen to the steel and it is not uncommon for it to not take an edge. As said, the damage can be much deeper than what shows visually.

For example, if it had a large chip, and you remove steel to the bottom of the chip, the steel below the chip may be damaged or work hardened and will continue to chip, after a new edge has been formed.

The other issue may be the tools you used to make the repair, low grit aggressive stones or diamond plates can leave deep stria and cause an edge to fail.

If you get a good TNT but it fails, it could be you drew out the fin too long, from too much honing, and it then it breaks off, at the higher grit stones. When I do a lot of edge repairs, I set the bevel, then kill the edge by jointing it on a corner of the 1k stone. Jointing on a stone cuts the fin off straight and not rolling it over as a finger nail or glass would, so you have a straight edge to work with.

Then reset the edge with light pressure on the 1K. Look straight down on the edge to make sure the bevels are fully meeting, with no chipping. If you go to the thread Sean mentioned, Second try at Honing, post 42, page 9, Photos 4 & 5 (upper right hand corner) show and edge that is close, (not fully set). Post 51, page 11, first photo, shows a fully set bevel.

Looking at the edge, straight down will give you a lot more info than a TNT will. You may have to joint and reset an edge a few times to get to good steel.

On that Second try at Honing, fully setting the bevel was a large part of his problem. Once he fully set it, the edge came together fine.