Thread: The Butchered Blade

The scales are sanded , wedge rough shaped , and blade shimed for a perfect fit. I just need to shape the wedge to the scales, and apply a finish. I'll put the blade in a set of plastic scales and hone out the chips and set bevel, while the finish dries.

In this pic, you can see how crazy (bent,twisted) the blade is.

Originally Posted by outback

The scales are sanded , wedge rough shaped , and blade shimed for a perfect fit. I just need to shape the wedge to the scales, and apply a finish. I'll put the blade in a set of plastic scales and hone out the chips and set bevel, while the finish dries.

In this pic, you can see how crazy (bent,twisted) the blade is.

Looks good Mike!

[QUOTE=outback;1583566]The scales are sanded , wedge rough shaped , and blade shimed for a perfect fit. I just need to shape the wedge to the scales, and apply a finish. I'll put the blade in a set of plastic scales and hone out the chips and set bevel, while the finish dries.
In this pic, you can see how crazy (bent,twisted) the blade is.

Looks like its gonna be a nice shaver . v nice.

Originally Posted by outback

... I just need to shape the wedge to the scales, and apply a finish...

Mike, seems to me your scales have tiny bug holes on it (I'm on my lousy phone). You plano fill them with something?
I "lathe" some brass little pins some time ago on the dremel and glued them on the bug holes of an old wood box, sanded to make them flush and applied the lacquer. I really loved the effect of the tiny golden pins on the box, instead of the holes.

Lovely wood, btw.

Originally Posted by Matheus

Mike, seems to me your scales have tiny bug holes on it (I'm on my lousy phone). You plano fill them with something?
I "lathe" some brass little pins some time ago on the dremel and glued them on the bug holes of an old wood box, sanded to make them flush and applied the lacquer. I really loved the effect of the tiny golden pins on the box, instead of the holes.

Yep...worm holes , filled them with CA, sanded them smooth, then apply the finish. The wood is black n white ebony. [emoji6]

Great job on the skins Mike!
Going to be a pretty restore, and a fine shaver.

Originally Posted by JOB15

I never knew such a substance was available . I just ordered some


Attachment 223276

Great stuff for bluing touch ups. A fair number of write ups on use as well.
Keys are clean, degreased completely blade. Warm the blade some to improve etching strength pre application. Nail polish to mask the non blued areas, (thanks for the tip Richard). And some 000 steel wool to polish post app.
Repeat as required.
Good luck and enjoy!

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Great stuff for bluing touch ups. A fair number of write ups on use as well.
Keys are clean, degreased completely blade. Warm the blade some to improve etching strength pre application. Nail polish to mask the non blued areas, (thanks for the tip Richard). And some 000 steel wool to polish post app.
Repeat as required.
Good luck and enjoy!

Biggest thing for me and blueing.
If you want it black... Coat with oil and let it sit after application, no rubbing for awhile. I also like to see a bit of light rust coming thru before I oil it down. YMMV

Yes. I steel-wooled the tang and spine, wipe good with alcohol, really good, laid it on a warm radiator for a bit.
Apply the blue well with a q-tip, holding it by the taped blade. I can do a close job without tape or any masking.
Let it dry and work for a minute, rinse well with water to kill the reaction and dry it off with a clean paper towel and buff
with a bit of dry 000 steel wool. I then repeat 3 more times.
Then slather the blade with WD40 and a bit more steel wool, wipe again, reoil, and let it sit for a day.
Outback is right that letting it sit will make for a darker job.

I will be headed to the shop after a bit and will post a pic before I attempt the silver rubnbuff in the stamps.
The backside stamp is super-shallow. It may not work back there, but should in the front stamp which is deeper.