Thread: The Butchered Blade

Here it is after sitting oiled a few days. Turned out pretty nice. I neglected to say I took about a 64th off the end of the blade as I had sanded so much (due to the pitting from the original wedge breaking down with cell rot) it was a bit wavy at the front of the blade. Hitting the hone wear with a hard buffing wheel longways trims it up nicely down the spine. Good pics of a blue-job are hard to take, for some reason.
(NO Smurf jokes, PLEASE!)
Blued the spine and around the nose as well. All I have done this with have held-up quite well.
Now, to clean the tang stamps good with alcohol and let that dry good and attempt the RubNBuff silver.....

So, picking down in the stamps with a pin as best I could, cleaned both sides with alcohol and dried well, I stuck it back on the magnetic jig to hold it still.



I shake the little tube of RubNBuff good and apply a tiny bit to the tip of a toothpick and dab it on the letters and ducks.
Just this tiny bit is all needed! Then, I spread it with the toothpick flat, back and forth, up and down, forcing it into the recesses. Then, wipe off the top with a fresh business card, keeping it as confined to the stamp area as possible.
This takes most of it off the top.

Allow to dry a while and rubbing it with the thumb takes the rest off nicely, leaving it in the stamps. This takes a little while!

Not too bad! It gets in every pit and scratch/defect. Not much to be done there...
Interestingly, the shallow rear stamp turned out better than the front one, I think. Oh well, they will stand out, so that is the idea.

Will dry for a day or two, TuffGlide it all (being gentle with the stamps), and get with the scales.

Anybody have any experience with TI frame backs?
I'm trying to clean some rust spots on the blade and was planning to use MAAS on the blade. If I got MAAS on the frame, woyld it mess up the plating?

Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings

Anybody have any experience with TI frame backs?
I'm trying to clean some rust spots on the blade and was planning to use MAAS on the blade. If I got MAAS on the frame, would it mess up the plating?

Won't hurt the spine, I would think. Are you certain it is plated? Smear the polish on and work it with a toothpick, toothbrush, q-tip.

Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings

Anybody have any experience with TI frame backs?
I'm trying to clean some rust spots on the blade and was planning to use MAAS on the blade. If I got MAAS on the frame, woyld it mess up the plating?

MAAS will not hurt plating. I've used it on Geneva/Genco and Clauss blades that were plated. Works just fine.

Is the TI blade not removable? I thought TI was one of the brands that the blade could be changed or removed.

Originally Posted by RezDog

Is the TI blade not removable? I thought TI was one of the brands that the blade could be changed or removed.

I think the ones with changeable blades have a screw. This blade appears to have been clamped in the frame.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Great stuff for bluing touch ups. A fair number of write ups on use as well.
Keys are clean, degreased completely blade. Warm the blade some to improve etching strength pre application. Nail polish to mask the non blued areas, (thanks for the tip Richard). And some 000 steel wool to polish post app.
Repeat as required.
Good luck and enjoy!

Okay, I have some catching up to do.
B52, I have found that in certain cases, heat works very good when applying something like that to metal. Years ago when I was building my first Harley, I was painting some things in wrinkle black spray paint & I found the best way to get it to wrinkle up really good & for it to do it's job to the max was to heat up the piece being painted. At the time I used the oven on a transmission case.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

So, picking down in the stamps with a pin as best I could, cleaned both sides with alcohol and dried well, I stuck it back on the magnetic jig to hold it still.



I shake the little tube of RubNBuff good and apply a tiny bit to the tip of a toothpick and dab it on the letters and ducks.
Just this tiny bit is all needed! Then, I spread it with the toothpick flat, back and forth, up and down, forcing it into the recesses. Then, wipe off the top with a fresh business card, keeping it as confined to the stamp area as possible.
This takes most of it off the top.

Allow to dry a while and rubbing it with the thumb takes the rest off nicely, leaving it in the stamps. This takes a little while!

Not too bad! It gets in every pit and scratch/defect. Not much to be done there...
Interestingly, the shallow rear stamp turned out better than the front one, I think. Oh well, they will stand out, so that is the idea.

Will dry for a day or two, TuffGlide it all (being gentle with the stamps), and get with the scales.

Tom, the bluing & the RubNBuff job all worked out very good. You da man!!!!

Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings

I think the ones with changeable blades have a screw. The blade appears to have been clamped in the frame.

On the ones w/o screws, the blades do not come out. They are very similar to a Jaques Lecoultre & I think I do have a Jaques Lecoultre with a fixed blade.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

So, picking down in the stamps with a pin as best I could, cleaned both sides with alcohol and dried well, I stuck it back on the magnetic jig to hold it still.


I shake the little tube of RubNBuff good and apply a tiny bit to the tip of a toothpick and dab it on the letters and ducks.
Just this tiny bit is all needed! Then, I spread it with the toothpick flat, back and forth, up and down, forcing it into the recesses. Then, wipe off the top with a fresh business card, keeping it as confined to the stamp area as possible.
This takes most of it off the top.

Allow to dry a while and rubbing it with the thumb takes the rest off nicely, leaving it in the stamps. This takes a little while!

Not too bad! It gets in every pit and scratch/defect. Not much to be done there...
Interestingly, the shallow rear stamp turned out better than the front one, I think. Oh well, they will stand out, so that is the idea.

Will dry for a day or two, TuffGlide it all (being gentle with the stamps), and get with the scales.

Great tips Tom, and really nice mark definitions.

Originally Posted by outback

Biggest thing for me and blueing.
If you want it black... Coat with oil and let it sit after application, no rubbing for awhile. I also like to see a bit of light rust coming thru before I oil it down. YMMV

Been thinking about this..Instead of oiling and steel-wooling, you just let the last application sit until you see some light rust and then oil the blade and let that sit to kill the reaction? How long? Need to try that.
Mine are always nice and blue, yet very reflective after the oil/steel wool. Hard to photograph!