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Thread: The Butchered Blade
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08-12-2015, 11:05 PM #41
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Thanked: 4206Nice, looks like there's a toe chip or is that the pic?
Should clean up very well though. Nice grind.
Cheers"Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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08-12-2015, 11:17 PM #42
Its not a stub tail. It is a true convex wedge. Only has Johnson on it. Looks like someone tried to grind it flat. I was going to try and make it a frameback.
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08-12-2015, 11:25 PM #43
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The Following User Says Thank You to outback For This Useful Post:
sharptonn (08-13-2015)
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08-12-2015, 11:40 PM #44
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08-13-2015, 12:01 AM #45
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- Orangeville, Ontario
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Thanked: 4206
Thanks gents.
I'm going to use this one as both test subject and sacrificial horn stock and try to save the originals.
The one end is missing some, but I have the other for profile. There is also a chunk out of the side of one but it will be a fun experiment if nothing else. I think the wedge is done though and will make a new one out of brass stock.
If the scale restore isn't to my liking new ones in honey blond horn will be on deck I think.
Nothing acrylic or kirrinite-ish on this old soldier.
Cheers."Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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08-13-2015, 12:04 AM #46
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08-13-2015, 12:44 AM #47
Enjoying this thread gents. Can't wait to see that WB finished.
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08-13-2015, 12:51 AM #48
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08-13-2015, 12:52 AM #49
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08-13-2015, 01:05 AM #50
So I am getting happy with my stabilizers. Seems they keep on multiplying!
Figure I will get my aluminum pop rivet blade bushing in now so as working on the tang a bit, I can also smooth out the grinder's slips there!
I use an old, trashed Dremel pointed reamer with a 1/8 shaft. A drop of oil and it goes right through these odd-shaped holes. I do use a slow turning drill press and take my time.
Pop my rivet in, knock out the mandrel with a 1/16 punch;
Then, dremel drum the head down so thin, I can pick it off with a pocketknife. Grind the other side to just proud of the tang;
I then take it to my peening anvil and tap it down, squishing it into the remains of the odd-shaped hole, down to the tang.
I will run a 5/64 bit thru and saw back and forth to make certain the pin is comfortable where the scales dictate.
Too tight of a pivot bushing can cause seizing and fitment issues, IMO.
For the record, I do not think this is necessary for most old razors. On this one, my shortened FBU scales are going to make things pretty darn tight, so I don't want it walking forward toward the wedge. This bushing will keep it from that."Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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