Thread: We Have Skills Too !!

Originally Posted by AcesandEights

That ain't no S#!T. While I wasn't riding in the 'early 70's, I was riding a late '70's, in the middle '80's ((read that again, and it'll make sense...lol)). My 1st HD, a '78 shovel, all that was needed to completely tear the whole thing down was: Wrenches from 3/8" to 7/8", Flat head & Phillips screw driver, a few allen wrenches, a pair of pliers and maybe a pair of vise grips.

Even on my '90...back in the day, I LITERALLY torn my engine completely down ((in a hotel room in St. Joe, Mo.)) with only a set of (standard) allen keys, a few standard wrenches and a couple pair of pliers, to replace the rear piston (which burnt a hole in it, due to a leaking head gasket.) AND, the same tools were used to replace the main shaft and counter shaft on the same trans a couple yrs later, after I smoked it a few miles outside of Custer, S.D., one year.

Now-a-days, on my '09, I need damn near a full set of metric AND SAE wrenches, full range of pliers, metric hex heads, not to mention a laptop computer...just to change the air/fuel mixture!!!

Kinda feel your pain there. I fix modern vehicles for a living, but I've got an 85 Jeep J7 as a side toy/plaything. While off road 2.5 hours away from home, the shifter slipped out of the forks.

I was able to tear the top of the transmission off, get the forks realigned, and slip the shifter back in it's home. Only needed a screw driver and a standard socket set. Then carefully drove it back home 2.5 hours.

Once home, I ordered some parts and used the same tools to rebuild the top end of the transmission so that wouldn't happen again.

Had something similar happened with a newer vehicle...good luck. It would take a LOT more than an hour or two to get it back in drIving shape, and more than the 2 I spent fixing the actual problem.

And you didn't need a computer to program in the serial number of the nut that you used.

Originally Posted by 32t

And you didn't need a computer to program in the serial number of the nut that you used.

Added bonus - 75% of the computer controls on that vehicle have been bypassed, and it runs better for it!

To help fix all you cage drivers cars and trucks! Tc

DNM I like that cornice. There is not much of that kind of construction in my region. I do like to look at all of the different buildings when I am off in other areas. There are different elements from different eras and areas that I like.

Originally Posted by RezDog

DNM I like that cornice. There is not much of that kind of construction in my region. I do like to look at all of the different buildings when I am off in other areas. There are different elements from different eras and areas that I like.

yes, i agree. is there some sort of trick to keeping it from cracking where the new meets the old? any repairs i've done to cement have only been temporary.

My dad was a plasterer, he always swore by eucoweld. I have used it successfully myself.

Originally Posted by tintin

Is there some sort of trick to keeping it from cracking where the new meets the old? any repairs i've done to cement have only been temporary.

I'm not familiar with Eucoweld but when i'm doing a repair such as the cornice, i'm using the same glue as for tiles. You can say that I paint it where the repair needs to be and after that I start to build it up with mortar. But it's important that the glue is not hardened and dried out when you add the mortar, so the glue and mortar hardener the same time. Many people also believe that the more cement you add the stronger and better it'll be. But thats not true. It can be too strong and that can cause cracks.

Originally Posted by RezDog

DNM I like that cornice. There is not much of that kind of construction in my region. I do like to look at all of the different buildings when I am off in other areas. There are different elements from different eras and areas that I like.

I took a picture of a real nice cornice last year. So beautiful, I love it!

We have a Laurentian grandfather clock that stopped advancing the hourly chime a while back, always chimed 2 o'clock regardless of the actual hour, and so I finally got into it this weekend to figure out why.



What needed to be removed to gain access to the works. And after cycling it for a while I figured out what wasn't right.

If you look at the toothed rack in the forefront of the image, that's what controls the hourly striker. Currently the counter pin is set to chime four times. if you look up along that rack you will see a reversed L shaped angle behind that rack. That L was deflected 1/64" upwards as measured across the flat. This prevented the release at the far left of said rack from lifting high enough for the rack to reset each hour.
Slow methodical tear down to get that lever arm taken off to adjust it with some circlip pliers, then a slight adjustment with some soft jawed offset micro pliers and voila, the old clock is back on time..
A nice project to find some zen on a sunny Sunday.