Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by RezDog

At some point you should remove the scales. There is often a lot of ugly hiding under them. Also there is a I bit of a learning curve on the buffer. Go slow and be gentle.

What Shaun said-If there's rust on the tail, there's definitely rust around the pivot. And the buffer is also called a missile launcher in my shop. I have several of them-all it takes is one careless move, especially on the 3500 rpm jobs!

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

What Shaun said-If there's rust on the tail, there's definitely rust around the pivot. And the buffer is also called a missile launcher in my shop. I have several of them-all it takes is one careless move, especially on the 3500 rpm jobs!

Yes it can be. That's good advice. Nothing like something sharp enough to shave with flying through the air. Oh, fortunately, or unfortunately however you want to look at it, I'm already hip to that little tidbitt of information but the other thing that wasn't mentioned is the fact that it can warp a blade if you lean too hard and too long against one spot.

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

Thanks for the suggestion, David-I just put 'em back together with epoxy over .020" G10 sheets-Paul inspired me to try. Again, I've got nothing to lose, and if it doesn't work, I learned another lesson and have more desert ironwood on the way. I love how this ongoing thread is about people sharing issues and fixes from their workbench; within hours, you've got a bunch of potential fixes-what a great resource for us all!

Just saw this one, been busy but try to skim through.
Ouch! That's a tough break, you took it well.

With regard to woods that snap easy, I apply some of the tricks I've learned in carpentry.
So there are a few things.. You can soak the wood, then clamp it to a block with the correct curve. Then let it dry thoroughly. After that you laminate it to your backer (whichever you use), and let the adhesive dry after clamping it again to the curved block.
It also helps to put in some pins at key points, BUT make sure to strengthen the holes you drill with thin CA, drill again the same hole, and pin it (or glue a snug fitting pin).
This helps prevent lateral movement.
It's not perfect, as the opening and closing of the scale will flex the scales away from the resting position that you have "created" with this technique.
Just a suggestion. This may be necessary as the wavy grain of various woods make pin to pin alignment less than perfect.
Good luck!

I got the wade and butcher all sanded out, now for a trip through the vibrating polisher to take the sheen down to a nice semigloss. I will likely reuse the original scales that are honey horn with integral wedge.

Had one of those "learning experiences" today. Haven't had one in a while, so I was probably due. Was working on cleaning up this Geneva Cutlery. Nothing big, just a quick clean and light sanding to get rid of some of the light pitting and tarnish.



Unfortunately I got a little heavy handed when repinning the scales.


Now to figure out what kind of new scales to put on it.

Originally Posted by Theseus

Had one of those "learning experiences" today. Haven't had one in a while, so I was probably due. Was working on cleaning up this Geneva Cutlery. Nothing big, just a quick clean and light sanding to get rid of some of the light pitting and tarnish.



Unfortunately I got a little heavy handed when repinning the scales.


Now to figure out what kind of new scales to put on it.

I'm glad someone else on here is doing some "learning" for a change. I'm sure that will come out great, Theseus. And Shaun, that WB is showing promise-I look forward to the finished product.

That’s how I started making scales. I was just tightening up a few pivots and you know the rest of the story.

Got back to my J. Cockhill British military razor and got two back scales finished for the two fronts I made (the plan was one front and one back, but you know )
I'm planning on using the set with the least brown streaks (the ones closest to the blade). I'll use the other set for a future project. Got them soaking in some oil for a couple of days and will be pinning them up soon.



While I'm waiting I'm going to start on a Robson ShurEdge 36-M-400 "the blade that fits your face" I picked up a while ago. Couple of questions before I take it apart (all I've done currently is file the pins flat for drilling).

1. I haven't messed with bolsters before. Would polishing them in place before disassembly be the best approach?
2. The scales have a melted spot just below the pivot bolster. I think an epoxy fill would work, but won't match the color(s) in the scales. I'm considering leaving it the way it is as it looks to still be structurally sound. Any thoughts?
3. I think the tang and possibly the blade were blued at some point. Am I mistaken? Re-bluing is not a problem, just want to know if that's what was original to the razor.
4. The scales have a slight warp and pinch into the blade at the wedge end. They actually close centered and don't rub. Should I try and straighten them a bit or leave it alone?


The front


The melted spot


Closer view of tang


Scale warp

Straightening those scales will avoid the future problem of your razor not closing properly. I would polish the bolsters before reassembly. When you take it apart it should answer the bluing question, because if it was glued before you should see some of it left here or there. You can try an epoxy or polyester patch on the melted spot or make them evenly notched.

Originally Posted by RezDog

I got the wade and butcher all sanded out, now for a trip through the vibrating polisher to take the sheen down to a nice semigloss. I will likely reuse the original scales that are honey horn with integral wedge.

I like walnut media with flitz polish. What do you use?