Thread: What are you working on?

Sometimes it just dont clean up as well as we want. Your on the right path. Just go slow and easy. Enjoy the process.

I've got way more razors with character, than I do pristine.
And like it that way. Clean um up, hone um out, and enjoy shaving with a relic that puts the smack down, on any cartridge razor.

Agreed. This should be a fun one to bring along.

I knew before I started that the devil's spit had set in pretty well, but this is a Mappin For Barbers Use and I don't see many of them. I figured it would be worth a little effort.

Sonny-You're really making me want a Mappin! And I hear ya on the devil's spit. "Well, that doesn't look too bad; it should sand right out.....um, wait." I'm starting to let some of the old Sheffields I favor that come across my bench with battle scars keep some of them instead of chasing perfection. Myself, I don't have the skills of a guy like Karl, and am always barely a step ahead of carpal tunnel, so I try not to do too much hand-sanding if I can help it. Let us see the finished product.

It is pretty typical that black rust hides pitting. How deep it runs is impossible to tell ahead. Most of the ones I have restored I just left the pitting. It’s a lot of sanding to chase it all out. Essentially you need to sand the entire blade to the level of the pitting. That a lot of metal to remove in most cases. Once the black rust is removed it will not progress, and I think it looks better. Some leave the black rust, and that’s a choice too.

Im with ya Aaron. My hand scream at me for days after sanding blades. Karl does his main sanding with belts I believe. Sure he does hand sanding too. And you will notice most of the blades he does are near wedge. Lots of steal to work with so it can take a lot of sanding. He is a pro restorer for sure.

The hollow blades cant take a lot of sanding. My collection is full of pitted blades. I like the battle scars. As long as they are cleaned out well.

That’s is a good point Jerry. I did wreck a nice full hollow razor trying to chase out the pitting. I wound up getting the blade so thin it was floppy.
I don’t think anyone has a secret way of going a regrind without a ton of hand sanding. Even new grinds require a fair amount of hand sanding.

I got a need to make some scales since I haven't made any in a while. Madagascar Ebony scales, Bone wedge, and 7/8 French Faux Frameback blade. I put in an order for a few collars from Austin. Right now the scales are just shaped and sanded to 320 grit. Next I will get a couple coats of CA on the insides. I'm thinking of the Tru-oil on these and hope it brings out some of the wood grain.
Time to get out the hones for the rest of the night.

Jerry-Where do you get those twist bolts? Seems like they would be a lot easier to use than the micro-fasteners I'm currently using for mock-up.

Here's where I got mine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Miniature-s...d=173185245907

Sure look like the same ones.