Thread: What are you working on?

You are most welcome, Tom!
If it's sitting around, better use for it!

I seem to have worked on piles of razors with these....
Getting 'threadbare'? Still working!

Tom, have you found an easy way to get those nuts threaded? I’m always fumbling with mine, I keep thinking I should get the coupling nuts as they seem like they would be easier to thread onto the rod.

I operate on thick paper-towels. If it falls, it usually sticks.

Yes-fumbling.
You must understand that I fumble with hardware for a living!

As they get worn they fall into place better.
I don't make scales, but use vintage stuff.
It was hard to see what I was accomplishing (or not!) with the big ones.
I tighten them with large tweezers....

The material on my jig is craft foam. Its about 1/16" thick and with the magnets underneath it pulls the edge down into the foam. Just a little extra protection for my fingers. I had a piece glued down but had to change it once. Not i just sit a piece on it and it stays good enough. A buck or two at wally world and you got enough for a long time.

Tom, i dropped the bolts and nuts in the mail on Monday. So you should see them by this weekend. Happy to help. You have done so much more for me. Im happy i can finally help you. Even if its just a little. This time.

Just about finished with my second set of scales.

I was a bit worried about breaking the scales when I pinned it. My son and I are fans of the Forged in Fire show on the history channel. I've seen kirinite break several times when contestants pinned it. Granted they were using 1/4 inch rod and 3 pound hammers, but still made me a bit worried. I test pinned a piece of scrap with no collars and really beat the snot out of the pins - not even a hint of breaking.

I'm not super happy with the wedge. I really like the look of the brass/lead sandwich (first time I've tried this), but it's barely a wedge and the taper is uneven from top to bottom. The scales do open up when closing, so it seems to be functional. I also wish I'd made the wedge and scales a tad longer to add more weight to get the balance closer to the pivot. The balance point right now is about at the W in the Packwood tang stamp. The position of the collar would also look better farther from the end. In the future I'll be making my scales longer than I think they should be and sand them to final length after fitting the wedge.

The scale thickness is a little uneven from side to side in a couple of spots, so room for improvement there. I really liked the look of this kirinite with the full polish, but it didn't work for me with this blade. I went with a 2000 grit no polish finish and am pleased with the overall look.

Next is honing, finish polish the pins, and get them closer to the collars. I want to wait on the pins in case it loosens up during the honing. I haven't honed a near wedge yet, so I'm expecting a bit of an adventure. The really handy honing angle spread sheet I found on one of the threads is giving me an angle of 18.1 degrees with one layer of my tape and 18.7 degrees with two layers. I'm thinking of starting with two layers and moving to one. Does this sound like a good plan?

IMO, a slight tapper from top to bottom on a wedge is a good thing. I agree about the pin location on the wedge. Father in would be better looking but I've done some very far out, close to the edge so as long as they sit right. Starting with 2 or evan 3 layers of tape to get the bevel set is normal. Helps to work the edge and not as much steel. Than move to less and a wider bevel. The perfect angle on a near wedge can also mean a wide bevel so keep that in mind. Nothing wrong with an 18 or 19 degree bevel. Sure it will shave differently but its a big chunk of steel. You don't want a 1/2" wide bevel just so you can have 17.5 degrees.

We are our own worst critics when it comes to restoring. I think you did a great job!

How does the taper of your wedge compare to the taper of the tang?
It seems to me that there is a strong relationship there.
I would see how you like the shave with two layers of tape, and of course how even the bevel is will show how even the thickness of the blade is along the edge.

Originally Posted by RezDog

How does the taper of your wedge compare to the taper of the tang?
It seems to me that there is a strong relationship there.
I would see how you like the shave with two layers of tape, and of course how even the bevel is will show how even the thickness of the blade is along the edge.

The tang taper and wedge taper are pretty similar to my eye. The tang might have just a bit more taper than the wedge. The tips of the scales ride along the tang when opening with the center of the scales pinching slightly together when the blade is in stropping position. The opening and closing movement of the scales is pretty similar to other razors I have. Not sure I worded all of that in the clearest way, hope it's at least understandable.

This is my first wedge, so I'm really looking forward to seeing how it shaves. I think my biggest fight will not rushing things. Good idea of trying the shave with two layers and then deciding. I think I'll at least give it a test pass after two layers.

The establishing the initial complete apex is the key in every honing job. Without it you have nothing. A loupe is how I decide if it is complete or not. If you are uncertain of that let me know because there are threads with very good visuals to set you straight.

I've got a 10X loupe and have been using it frequently with my honing. The JaNorton challenge thread really helped me improve my honing. The micro-chipping thread was also really helpful. I actually got the bevel set this afternoon. Two layers of tape was the ticket, it came in right on the bevel that was already on the blade. After I thought I had it set, I went a bit further just to make extra sure I was good to move on. I'll work up through the stones over the next couple of days. Thanks for the help.