Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Mini sand blaster?
I need to look into this.
Considering between soda and media blaster for my automotive restore. Maybe big soda, with a mini sand might give me the best of both cleaning processes.
Thanks

Mike,

As far as heavy duty parts like cast iron for engines trans etc here's what I do:

I have a very good working relationship with a local automotive machine shop and as long as it's only 'Once in awhile' they let me use their big glass bead blasting cabinet. While they don't charge me, I Always give them $5-$10 for the usage.

I may stop by and ask if I can rent the cabinet, sometimes they are either using it OR using some other air powered unit so I come back either later in the day or whenever they say I can use it.

Perhaps inquiring at a few local shops about being able to use their blast cabinet would be a good 'Investment'.

I've never seen the results, but I've been told that sandblasting on automotive sheet metal is a disaster as the process actually 'Work Hardens' the surface and can also deform the metal, but again, I've never personally ever had any experience with this.

I've seen automotive bodies that were soda blasted and they did look nice, however I believe that any of the soda that's left in cracks and crevices would draw moisture and start a big problem with rusting.

Just a thought.

I have not use soda for body panels but works great for small parts and especially on nuts and bolts. It cleans threads to like new.

I soak bolts in simple green to remove grease and dirt, then blast with soda dry. I used to chase nuts and bolts with taps and dies, but soda blasting does a quicker and better job.

Controlling pressure and distance you can obtain different finishes on steel, nickel and aluminum like distributors and tools, hand saw plates and brace bits. Very controllable.

Originally Posted by cudarunner

I'm glad to hear that it smoothed out, that patina will slowly return/unless you don't want it to and keep it polished.

A steel gives a knife the best 'Refresh' if the knife is held at the same angle it was sharpened at.

I sharpen knives at approximately 22 degs. My mentor used a lower angle but I could never get good results so I stuck to the 22 degs.

I just took possession of a Victorinox 14" Straight, Granton, with a Black Fibrox Pro Handle. I had a similar knife made by Dexter/Russel that I'd picked up during a store closure N/C and it's a decent knife but the handle was deteriorating to the point to where it would crumble so it was time for a new knife as I felt either making or having a new handle would cost more than the knife was worth.

Straight out of the package, I plucked the edge and it didn't feel sharp at all so I looked at it under my loupe and could see that the factory edge was turned a bit so I put some water on my thumbnail and ran the edge over the nail---it slid without ANY resistance.

I broke out my F. Dick Steel, ran the new knife over it a few times and retested the thumbnail test and it grabbed the entire edge. This time when I plucked the edge it felt sharp,

While some might be happy with the corrected factory edge there's a reason I have a Norton Tri-Stone so I'm off to change what I think is a 'Good Edge' to an EXCELLENT EDGE--

Yes Virginia, Steels really do improve a knife's edge--

Here you go...

That's a mighty fine looking F. Dick Steel you have there my friend.

Use it often--------

I’ve used sand and glass, never soda and understand it does do a good job on panels which is what my main focus will be. But it’s a one time use I think and will probably require a booth of sorts made to channel the debris and dust.
Good idea to check local shops, see if someone has blasting goodies round here.
Thanks gents.

Originally Posted by cudarunner

I just took possession of a Victorinox 14" Straight, Granton, with a Black Fibrox Pro Handle. I had a similar knife made by Dexter/Russel that I'd picked up during a store closure N/C and it's a decent knife but the handle was deteriorating to the point to where it would crumble so it was time for a new knife as I felt either making or having a new handle would cost more than the knife was worth.

Straight out of the package, I plucked the edge and it didn't feel sharp at all so I looked at it under my loupe and could see that the factory edge was turned a bit so I put some water on my thumbnail and ran the edge over the nail---it slid without ANY resistance.

I broke out my F. Dick Steel, ran the new knife over it a few times and retested the thumbnail test and it grabbed the entire edge. This time when I plucked the edge it felt sharp,

While some might be happy with the corrected factory edge there's a reason I have a Norton Tri-Stone so I'm off to change what I think is a 'Good Edge' to an EXCELLENT EDGE--

Yes Virginia, Steels really do improve a knife's edge--

The strop, for a knife. Realign, and maintain

Getting a blade cleaned up for MrZ.



Bunch of polishing yet to be done, but coming along just fine.

Nice work on trying to keep the lines strong Mike. She's got some pitting but for the age its what is expected. Nice work so far!

Originally Posted by outback

Getting a blade cleaned up for MrZ.
Bunch of polishing yet to be done, but coming along just fine.

Is that hand sanding or are you using a dremel.. I'm looking at that small frown area past the heel, slightly awkward..
Looking good Mike.