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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #18251
    Senior Member blabbermouth tcrideshd's Avatar
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    I’m going to invent the sears tower method of honing, much taller than the the old stones in Egypt
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  3. #18252
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    It makes sense that the pyramid is a method to hone without having to learn to set a bevel. Of course, it will, or could get a shaving edge, but why not just look at the bevels with magnification.

    Not too many years ago early day of SRP, the technology did not exist to take and post inexpensive micro graphs. So, unless you were honing with some one sitting across the table and showing you what an edge should look like at each stage, it was trial and error.

    There is a better way.

    Here is an old post from a new honer, who had access to a camera that took great micro graphs. He is walked through the grits until he perfected each stone.

    So, just get some 60-100X magnification and stay on each stone until your edges match the micrographs in the post for each stone.

    You will note, that almost half of the post is the honer trying to fully set the bevel. Post 51.

    One the bevel is fully-set, the rest is downhill.

    Second try at Honing.
    Last edited by Euclid440; 04-03-2020 at 12:01 PM.
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  4. #18253
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    I got this one in the mail today. I had made a stupid low offer and the guy took it. The shipping cost as much as the razor. Anyway, It had major hone wear on both sides. A good 1/8 inch wide. Heal needed some help, pins tightened and scales were warped badly. So I did some sanding to hide the hone wear, Tightened the pins, worked the heal and took a hairdryer to the scales. I spent about 1.5 hours on it and now its ready for the stones.

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    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  5. #18254
    Skeptical Member Gasman's Avatar
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    Tomorrow I get to go to work.
    So today I brought out 2 more from the to-do drawer. Sorry guys, I just forget to takes before pics.

    First up is a Bengall Cast Steel. This one didn't have much for hone wear but the heal needed work. Also, there was lots of active rust I had to really work to get clean. I lost some of the stamp on the tang but you can still read it. Dressed in Honey Horn scales that Outback repaired. Brass pins and colors.

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    Second is a Wm Elliot and Co #71. This one had a little rust at the pivot but a lot of pitting on the blade. So I gave it a satin finish to help hide the pitting. This one came in Black horn that needed straighten just a little. New brass pins and collars.

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    Both one these plus the one from last night is now in the "Needs Honed" Cup. At least I will have a little something to do next week, or should I say in 4 days.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

  6. #18255
    Senior Member JellyJar's Avatar
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    Default Something a little different

    My lovely bride picked this up at an antique store and gave it to me as a gift a number of years ago. Finally got around to sprucing it up.

    An F. Dick 14 inch sharpening steel (20 inch overall)
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    I did some light 320 grit sanding on the handle and 3M marine polish with steel wool on the steel and fittings. I wrapped the handle with a paper towel soaked with some mineral oil and let it sit for a day or so.
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    You can still see some of the original texture (green arrow on the left) that has been worn smooth from use. There's also a number of dings and cuts in the brass guard. I can't imagine how many knives this thing must have seen though it's life.
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    Cosmetically, I'm really pleased with how this came out. There's a few pits in the steel (green arrow on the right) that might affect function ...Thoughts? I'd love to use this, but if the pits will mess up an edge I'll be happy to leave it as a decorative piece. I really don't want to remove the patina from the steel, it would really ruin the look IMO.

    I did a little research and found the F. Dick company is a German cutlery manufacturer founded 1778 in Esslingen, Germany. They are still in business, so I think I'll try and contact the company to see if they can provide more info.
    O'Toole's commentary on Murphy's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

  7. #18256
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Much better than when you first got it!

    The man that taught me how to cut meat back in the mid '70's had started as an apprentice meat cutter working after school in 1934. He would become a Meat Cutter, then a Meat Manager, a Store Manager and would end up with his own independent grocery store.

    He always said that F. Dick made the best steels in the world.

    I have my uncles and have used it for 30 years. He passed away in the early 70's and when his wife passed she left me all of his knives and the steel.

    I've reconditioned several. All three of my children had F. Dick steels that I did. So does Gasman. The latest one I did was for my oldest and best friend.

    Yours looks to have the fixed ring on it. If you didn't know it, that ring will unscrew from the actual steel for a real good cleaning, sanding etc.

    Steels come with different finishes. My mentor told me that the ones real course ridges were for packing houses where the guys were constantly banging up against a bone and they needed a way to quickly bring the edge back.

    However he liked a near smooth steel and I've found that I also have that preference.

    That steel is quite hard. I've usually used a Wet-n-Dry 150 grit or 220 held with a rubber backing to stroke the steel up and down to smooth out any dings but leave just a bit of a bite.

    Once you learn how to properly use that steel you'll find that you'll be picking it up before using any knife.

    I'm sure this goes without saying but for the sake of being on the safe side----------steels don't work on 'Serrated Blades' Granton Edges--Yes!
    Last edited by cudarunner; 04-05-2020 at 01:56 AM. Reason: corrected date
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  9. #18257
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
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    That is a beauty, JJ, and sounds like the best according to our house meat-cutter Roy. I'd love to run an old carbon steel butcher knife on that thing!

    And I'm just curious, Roy-Have you ever used a modern ceramic "steel"? I've got one that works a treat very quickly, but then I've never tried one of these vintage jobs. My modern knife steel, a very nice Henckels, sits mostly unused. I need to use it more often!

    My usual treatment after the steel is 10-15 back-strokes on my heavy duty fire-hose strop with .5 diamond spray. This keeps my kitchen knives uber-sharp.
    There are many roads to sharp.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cudarunner View Post
    Once you learn how to properly use that steel you'll find that you'll be picking it up before using any knife.

    I'm sure this goes without saying but for the sake of
    And, for gosh sake, hold the steel without letting your thumb hang down! Hold it like the starter crank of a model T, thumb against your palm! Don't ask !!!
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  11. #18259
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad View Post
    That is a beauty, JJ, and sounds like the best according to our house meat-cutter Roy. I'd love to run an old carbon steel butcher knife on that thing!

    And I'm just curious, Roy-Have you ever used a modern ceramic "steel"? I've got one that works a treat very quickly, but then I've never tried one of these vintage jobs. My modern knife steel, a very nice Henckels, sits mostly unused. I need to use it more often!

    My usual treatment after the steel is 10-15 back-strokes on my heavy duty fire-hose strop with .5 diamond spray. This keeps my kitchen knives uber-sharp.
    To be honest--I'm not a fan of the ceramic 'steels'. I guess I'm a bit old fashioned or more of a traditionalist.

    Ceramic steels remove steel. While the amount that's removed is small I feel that if I want to remove steel from a knife--that's what the stones are for.

    Kind of like running your razor over a finishing hone before each shave and then stropping.

    A traditional steel only straightens the edge.

    With that said, if you like it and get good results it's fine with me.

    I run my knives over the steel each and every time before using them. Whenever some else is around and will be using knives, I run the knives over the steel before I put them away as I KNOW that they probably won't use the steel when they need to do any cutting.
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

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  13. #18260
    Senior Member JellyJar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cudarunner View Post

    Yours looks to have the fixed ring on it. If you didn't know it, that ring will unscrew from the actual steel for a real good cleaning, sanding etc.

    Steels come with different finishes. My mentor told me that the ones real course ridges were for packing houses where the guys were constantly banging up against a bone and they needed a way to quickly bring the edge back.

    However he liked a near smooth steel and I've found that I also have that preference.

    That steel is quite hard. I've usually used a Wet-n-Dry 150 grit or 220 held with a rubber backing to stroke the steel up and down to smooth out any dings but leave just a bit of a bite.
    Great info, thank you very much.

    Yes I have the fixed ring. Good to know about being able to unscrew the ring. I had tried unscrewing it a bit, but it was really tight and I didn't want to mess it up through ignorance.

    I have a coarse steel the came with a Sabatier kitchen knife set we got when first married. It will keep them cutting, but lessens a fresh edge. I've also got a smaller folding pocket steel that is polished smooth. I much prefer that one, but it's a little small for the larger kitchen knives.

    This steel feels quite smooth to the touch, but there are a few small areas that are a little rough. I'll tread lightly with a little sandpaper and see if I can smooth it out.

    Thanks again for the advice, much appreciated.
    O'Toole's commentary on Murphy's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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