Thread: What are you working on?

That stuff is great ain't it JJ? Maybe it's just the pici but I feel like other people get better results than I do. I use a red shop towel but I hear other people talk about t shirt or socks and it seems like that works better. Like I say, maybe it's just the pictures.

Yeah, it does a nice job pretty quickly. Steel wool takes it up another notch. That photo makes it look a little shinier that it is. The flash kind of took over. There's a few small pits still left.

Okay, so here's what I came out with. Man you have to leave that stinkin' crap on there for a LONG time. Still could have left it for longer.

That came out nice! Well done.

Nice work, Paul-In addition to shop rags and steel wool, when I really want to get aggressive with the polish I just smooth some onto a spiral-sewn buffing wheel. Yeah, some of it flies off, and it makes quite a mess, but it will make short work of a polishing task. That's on my 1750 rpm buffer, NOT the 3500 rpm-that thing scares me!

I have also use the erasers of those fat pencils little kids use-just cut about an inch off and put it in your drill press with the eraser hanging down. Load some polish onto your blade face, and move it around under the eraser-works pretty well for hollow grounds.

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

Nice work, Paul-In addition to shop rags and steel wool, when I really want to get aggressive with the polish I just smooth some onto a spiral-sewn buffing wheel. Yeah, some of it flies off, and it makes quite a mess, but it will make short work of a polishing task. That's on my 1750 rpm buffer, NOT the 3500 rpm-that thing scares me!

I have also use the erasers of those fat pencils little kids use-just cut about an inch off and put it in your drill press with the eraser hanging down. Load some polish onto your blade face, and move it around under the eraser-works pretty well for hollow grounds.

This sounds like something new. Am I reading this correctly? Short fat pencil in a drill press, load it with metal polish and let fly? Thats pretty slick.

I don't know how new it is. I think I posted about it a couple of years ago? Being soft rubber, the eraser will smoosh around in the hollows on your polish pretty well. But because it's small like a Dremel, you have to keep it moving around evenly so that it doesn't look like a Dremel did it.

Well I must not have clamped the scales between the wood blocks (large paint stir stick actually) for long enough because this morning I had a little warp back. Maybe it had something to do with the Neatsfoot soak I did for an hour or so. Anyway I decided to stick with what I know and do the med hot skillet stack.

The bottom one is a 12". The 10 1/2" inside is for added weight. I'm going to go ahead and leave them for 8 hours or so till it all comes to room temperature.
Sucks because I really wanted to pin those today but I don't want to rush it.

Edit: Oh yeah, you can probably tell but the table is granite so it's another good hard, smooth, insulative surface.

Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad

Nice work, Paul-In addition to shop rags and steel wool, when I really want to get aggressive with the polish I just smooth some onto a spiral-sewn buffing wheel. Yeah, some of it flies off, and it makes quite a mess, but it will make short work of a polishing task. That's on my 1750 rpm buffer, NOT the 3500 rpm-that thing scares me!

I have also use the erasers of those fat pencils little kids use-just cut about an inch off and put it in your drill press with the eraser hanging down. Load some polish onto your blade face, and move it around under the eraser-works pretty well for hollow grounds.

Sounds like that would be good for getting stains out of pitting that's deeper than you'd want to sand.

Yep...they typically get a Smit of warpage after the oil.

All ya need is a few seconds with that clothes iron, and a couple minutes to cool. In less than 10 minutes, you'd be pinning them up.

They came out great, BTW. I always let mine sit in dye for a few hours.