Thread: What are you working on?

Wedges are most of the time not perfect from hole to top, or hole to bottom. So you might find that if you pull it out and turn it over it might not fit correctly. Hangover on the top and sit too deep at the bottom. I'd just take the file to it and make it close right. If it closes ok now I'd just leave it.

I've had a number of them that have the wedge angle in what appears to be the wrong direction that I am convinced came that way from the factory. Perhaps it was put in upside-down at the factory. That looks like a factory pin to me. I normally use a jig saw or scroll saw blade without the set to the teeth and reshape it that way. If you're careful you can do it without altering or trying to tape or sheath the blade and still not mar the scales. Just don't hurry. That's what I would do.
If you do decide to pin you can buy rod and collars from a place like Maggard's. For pinning I use a steel block with a round divot cut with a drill bit to help keep the block side domed. Also I drilled a 5/64" hole about .030" deep. Put the rod through the scales with the collars on both sides and stick the short side to the bottom of the 5/64" hole. Cut the long part off as close as you can get with a pair of side cutters. This leaves just enough left to peen properly. You'll think it's too short but if you leave any more the pin will bend. Use a very small ball peen: 2-3 ounce is best. If it doesn't look like a toy it's too big. As Rezdog said, use the ball end and tap VERY lightly with lots of strokes in a circle around the pin or even turn the razor around. Stick with it and it will dome like it was molded that way. Be patient and tap more gently than you think you should. After You get the first side domed then pick it up making sure not to drop the collar from the other side then place the dome of the pin from the first side in the concavedivot that's cut with the drill bit. Press down on the top scale to make sure the scales are snug against the wedge and cut the remainder of the pin that's left off the same way you did on the first side. Now repeat what you did for the first side tapping around in a circle or turning the razor around so that the ball hits the pin all the way around it. You can repeat the process. What you will find if you do it correctly is that the concave dome in the block will dome the pin even more than the peening with the hammer did. I would encourage you to try to do this with one even if it's not this one (I would not unpin this one) because it's almost like magic to watch if you've never done it before. Make sure to be patient and tap gently and don't leave too much excess pin. That's the biggest mistake you'll make is leaving too much pin. Take your time and you'll do great work.

I meant to mention also, as Euclid said scale shrink, but it could also be from a bow in the scales. They have a little tension against them always but if they get hot or even if they just sit for a long time closed they can bow either inward or outward. Either will shorten the distance between the pins where the blade rests. Sometimes if it is in a box with the blade pushed too hard into the scales it can create this bow. If it was close to begin with it doesn't take very much. If it won't close then it doesn't matter whether it's .0010" or a thousand miles. The good news is it shouldn't take a lot of adjustment to bring it back right.

Thank you for all the info!
I have decided that I will not repin it. I will just rotate the wedge and file the corner off. I think less than one milimeter will do. After that I am tempted to tighten the pin just a little bit so the wedge doesn't turn anymore. I'd rather do that than glue it into place.

I think you made the right choice.

Tighten by tapping on the peened side, tapping the factory side will do nothing.

Do a few taps and test, it will tighten quickly and you can split the scale.

It was a bit difficult to sand the wedge, but it worked in the end.
I've tighten the pin and it actually required harder tapping than what I expected. I am happy with the result, but a bit of sanding of the scales might improve it.
A quick touch on the Nani 12k and will soon test it.



On to my next project: rescaling my grandfather's razor. I've decided to keep the blade patina as is. I will just clean the rust around the pivot. So far I wasn't able to find plastic or celluloid 5/8 scales. I'm not sure I want wooden scales for it. The silver inlay will have to be transferred of course!

I. Love bone and horn as scales materials and typically would use those. I’ve tried many different materials but always return to those.

Find gssixgun's vids on icon removal. If they are celluloid the icon will come off in seconds. If not it will take some work

Be careful, those icons are generally quite fragile

Been working on getting an edge on The Mois and I had a bit of a mental goof.

I got the bevel reset after making the heel better and moved onto the 4K. I got tired of working on it and set it aside for the night.

The next night I couldn't remember if I'd finished with the 4K (CRS is real). I looked at the bevel and the 1K striae seemed gone and it looked like I had one piece of tape on the spine (bevel set with 2 due to hone wear). I put a layer of tape on and proceeded to the 8K.

I didn't look at the edge for a while, since I've got a better idea of how long it takes me to remove the 4K striae. It stared undercutting water really nicely, so I checked the edge. A small polished area was right at the edge, it looked like the rest of the bevel hadn't been touched. I thought maybe my pressure was different? I figured the edge was all that mattered so I decided to give it a go. I pulled the tape off and thought it felt a bit stiffer than usual...yep, 3 layers.

I was planning on trying a micro-bevel on this anyway, but not on this stone. I decided to strop it up and see how it shaved the next morning. It was one of the best 8K edges I've done.

I'm thinking of just staying with 3 layers and going on to my ark. Is this a horrible idea?