Thread: What are you working on?

This was just an initial cleaning just from the childlike desire to play with my new toys. I will clean them more once I can leave the next one alone.

Once I've done more I'll take some good light box pictures.

Good ol' 3M....the shizzle.

I figured since I'm not working with a sharp tool and I can brace a DE against a piece of wood and rags...

I cleaned up the Gillette Blue tip tonight. I tried to get the pics from the same angles in before and after for comparison...
Hope ya like it.



It's nowhere near perfect but good enough for my collection.
BTW its a C-4 (1957)

Damn good for a one armed man, Jerry.

But since I'm here, y'all know what I'm working on.

Their separated, and Wosty scales sanded.



Looking over the W&B, I decided to pull out the greaseless 80grt. and even out the hone wear, and clean up most of the pitting.



I undercut the spine by working in small circles, while staying as close as possible to the spine. Then rotate the blade so the wheel direction is coming off the edge, and do large circles over the entire blade face to blend and remove pits.







Now the fun part of hand sanding....

Jerry, what an improvement! Do you intend to shave with it? If you do, do you have to worry about adjusting the blade exposure?

Mike, I’m so glad you showed the Dremel. I’ve been tempted to try removing pits with compounds, but always thought the guys who did that used a bench grinder/buffer and I don’t have the room for one of those. Plus, everyone warns about using Dremels on razors. I’d appreciate any wisdom you can provide about using a Dremel for this.

Think of it this way David. Ever see those guys that do freestyle motorcycle jumping? Lots of people ride a motorcycle but only a very small number are skilled enough to do those kinds of stunts.

You can ruin the temper, crack, chip or otherwise ruin a blade or you can sling it across the room and potentially injure yourself with it. However, if you're brave, skilled and very careful there are lots of things you can do with it that speed the process.

There is no adjustment on these TTO razors. Its all just linkage. You can take them apart but even then just the handle comes off. I didnt take it apart, just used Scrubbing Bubbles and a toothbrush. Then an hour with Maas and Q-tips to polish. The worst part is getting all the polish out of the nooks and cranys. I have a couple more of these to do then the schicks.

BTW, I shave with all my razors no matter what type they are. I will use this one 4 or 5 times before it goes into the rotation.

Originally Posted by DZEC

Jerry, what an improvement! Do you intend to shave with it? If you do, do you have to worry about adjusting the blade exposure?

Mike, I’m so glad you showed the Dremel. I’ve been tempted to try removing pits with compounds, but always thought the guys who did that used a bench grinder/buffer and I don’t have the room for one of those. Plus, everyone warns about using Dremels on razors. I’d appreciate any wisdom you can provide about using a Dremel for this.

First off...build a magnetic razor jig. It'll free up both hands, and hold the razor in place.



There's info in the library on how to make them.

But really, I don't use a dremmel very much, cept polishing collars, and a occasional scale.

But as stated above, circle's are your friend as it goes with dremmels. Always start with your wheel in contact with your working surface. Don't run at full speed, and watch your heat.

Wedges offer enough metal, for resurfacing or heavy sanding. So this is not for the full hollows. Using the dremmel and greaseless compounds isn't hard to do, its all the hand sanding it takes to get it all smoothed back out. That's why I do overlapping circles, it doesnt leave troughs n dips in the steel, as bad as back n fourth grinding. Thus easing the burden of hand sanding.

The hone wear is still there, its just hidden in cosmetic sanding and polishing. Again... Its just a tool to alleviate some of the heavy sanding, not for regrinding.

Originally Posted by outback

First off...build a magnetic razor jig. It'll free up both hands, and hold the razor in place.



There's info in the library on how to make them.

I made one of those a while ago and use it for hand sanding - got some Neodymium bar magnets with rubberized adhesive backing stuck to piece of flat oak and covered with a strip of leather. Works great when hand sanding.

I was just worried about taking too much off with the Dremel, heating the blade too much or catching the bevel with it and breaking the blade. Guess it’s a matter of taking it slow and careful and building up some muscle memory.

Yes, stay away from going over the edge, and make sure your wheel direction is coming off, and away from the edge.

The only time I run towards the edge, is when I'm undercutting the spine, during removal of hone wear.