Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Gasman

Im going to try the scotch brighting next for comparison. I think i need to tone mine down just a touch. Thanks Mike. I did the stabilizer on one side and not on the other. Wasnt sure what would look better. Now that i looks at a few pics from others i think ill do the stabilizer along with the blade.

Cutting compounds & scotchbrite can gives nice results.
This was finished on 3" scotchbrite wheels & a grey fast-cut compound.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ke-9-16-a.html

Nice satin finish on that one Oz. I do not know what compound that it, is it like the black emery cake?

Thanx Rez. No its a fast cut, quite greasy used on a soft scotchbrite wheel so one or 2 steps up from black emery. It's a step before white compound. I've used the Maxi-Cut also.
Cutting Compounds - Polishing Compounds - Ferro Finishing

I tried to use the scotch-bright wheel to change the satin finish. Just to tone it down and to try but... The pad grabbed the edge and put so much force on the blade that it cracked it.
I'm just happy I had a good grip on it so no damage to me or my fingers. Just a nice blade down the drain.

On a brighter note, I then decided I needed to make a set of scales for a different razor. I had ordered some horn blanks and when I got then they were grey in color. Figured, of well, I'll give them a try any way. Cut them out, shaped and drilled and sanded to 3K then rubbing compound and polish. Here is a pic of the material used in it raw form and with the scales that I made out of it.


Here they are with the razor that is going in them. Maybe. ha.


I got ahead of myself and hadn't made a wedge for the scales yet so things might change by a touch tomorrow. Who knows. You know how these thing go.

Originally Posted by Gasman

I tried to use the scotch-bright wheel to change the satin finish. Just to tone it down and to try but... The pad grabbed the edge and put so much force on the blade that it cracked it.
I'm just happy I had a good grip on it so no damage to me or my fingers. Just a nice blade down the drain.

Sounds like you didn't have the blade secured in a jig ?

Working on a snarling iron with a bit more bite for a couple of aluminum brush projects..

A big thank you again to Richard for the information about these metal working, dent popping little works of simple physics.
I made this one 8" long, out of s.s. and increased the curvature of the striking head face to allow, I hope, for less creasing concerns with the handle I'm cleaning up.
Initial strike testing in the vice show significantly greater resonance than the one I made out of an Allen key for my first project brush.
As our buddy Tom would say, should work a treat..

haha coarse finished horn is really hard to see what color it is. once you either light it up from behind or polish it the color comes true. Nice scales. That little incident with the dremel is what people are talking about when they say to be careful of the direction of turn on the wheel and it needs to turn away from the edge and not into it.

Don't know how big your wheels are Jerry, but here's the ones I use.

And with light pressure, just making contact.

Yep, Thats the ones Mike. And Rez, You are 100% correct. And yes, No Jig. I still haven't made one. I had done one side then flipped it over and didn't think about the direction of the wheel. Live and learn. At least no blood was shed. It might make for a really short blade some day.

Spent a few hours last night and this morning on these. Still no pins in the pivots yet. 2 of them have large pivot holes in the blades and I need to fill the holes a bit first. They turned out OK. Will do a write up on the Maple Scales at another time.

2 W&B and a Lafayette.