Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

No. I felt like I got good flow though.

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Not perfect but not bad altogether. There are some scratches from the clean up but those will be covered by the scales.

That is a damn fine repair Paul. You have to really look hard to see where the break occurred.

I have a 6/8 full hollow blade that has a 1/4” crack at the bevel. Do you think a silver solder repair is possible? I’ve never used the stuff and would like to know what I need to try the fix or if I should just consign it to the wind chime parts box.

You'd probably loose all temper in the blade. tangs typically aren't tempered like the blade itself. I have one with a crack like that. Shaves fine, doesn't move, thank God.

Originally Posted by outback

You'd probably loose all temper in the blade. tangs typically aren't tempered like the blade itself. I have one with a crack like that. Shaves fine, doesn't move, thank God.

I guess I’ll try to hone it up and try it out. I have to admit that the thought of shaving with a crack like that creeps me out.

If it moves, you'll hear it on the hone, in a X stroke. I kept pressure/torque to a minimum, and kept it from coming off the edge of the hone. My concern is moisture is eventually going to cause the edge to decay from within the crack. Hairs getting caught in it, in all. I always dry it well, with a hair dryer. No oil, don't want it to collect dust, even though it's in a box.

Originally Posted by outback

If it moves, you'll hear it on the hone, in a X stroke. I kept pressure/torque to a minimum, and kept it from coming off the edge of the hone. My concern is moisture is eventually going to cause the edge to decay from within the crack. Hairs getting caught in it, in all. I always dry it well, with a hair dryer. No oil, don't want it to collect dust, even though it's in a box.

If worst comes to worst, I can always turn it into a shorty. The crack is about an inch from the toe so there will still be a usable amount of blade left.

Mike beat me to it. What he said. I think you could but it has to get to 1800°F for the solder to flow correctly so you would have to oil/water bath quench it and re-temper afterwards. Even if you did I'm still not sure it would regain the correct temper.

Sanded the Frederick's up to 1200 grit.



Then a hand rubbed, polish.

Originally Posted by outback

All back together. Honed and ready for a test shave.

Great work Mike!
Glad to have donated that for a good cause.
That blade is very rare as Stacey Pease wasn’t around for long.
Rez, hope she gives you good shaves!
I find the steel very soft on these GB’s.
Gets great edges, but they don’t last for long.
Cheers!

Finished up the Frederick's, tonite.

Had a hickup with the dye, didn't take very well. I'd mixed up half of it over a year ago, so I assume it looses it's potency if not used, soon after opening the activator.



Was disappointed, cause the tiny eye dropper was perfect for dispensing a healthy dose, and control the shapes.

So, to all avail. I sanded the majority of what took, to emulate a more worn, set of scales. Still has some deep delamination not worth repairing, so what the heck.





Thanks for the donors, Paul. It fits perfectly.



Single layer of tape reveals a nice bevel.



The family's growing.

Originally Posted by outback

So, to all avail. I sanded the majority of what took, to emulate a more worn, set of scales. Still has some deep delamination not worth repairing, so what the heck.

Still looks better than some museum pieces I've seen.