Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by sharptonn

There was a time when I may have gotten out and snagged that sign.
It looks nicer where it's at than anywhere I could have put it, though!

Right Tommy, but there might be someone like the old Tom that will see that sign and rip it off the 'bobwire'
Sneaking in a question here because I like this little corner of the world..is there an optimum distance between the end of the blade and the wedge?

Originally Posted by RezDog

@prodigy,
because you have not pinned the wedge end you can torque your scales a little at the wedge end, and then re drill or reposition your wedge pin and get that blade to sit straight. You could also unpin the pivot and adjust how it sits in the scales with a little sanding. The moving the wedge end I do on occasion if I know I am dealing with a crooked razor. I also typically pin the wedge first unless I know something is off kilter. Henckels 14 happens to be near the top of my favorite razor list.

I just looked back at your pictures and you are in full mock up without any pins. I should wear my glasses I suppose.

So would I resand the wedge to make one side "flatter" than the other? I've never had to deal with one tgis far off center, and am not looking foward to making this. I love it when they just go together and sit dead center with no issues!

Originally Posted by WW243

Right Tommy, but there might be someone like the old Tom that will see that sign and rip it off the 'bobwire'
Sneaking in a question here because I like this little corner of the world..is there an optimum distance between the end of the blade and the wedge?

G'day I leave 1/32-1/16" between the toe of the blade tip to the top of the wedge inside corner as measured when closing. Using the microfastener nut and bolt combo to mock everything tight first.
Any more and it seems to look to far away when fully closed.
It's all measured in the arc when closing, and having a good pivot pin. If you have a lot of slop at the pivot, you will need more wedge clearance to ensure no impact in the future.
YMMV.
Happy Monday lads!

Originally Posted by prodigy

So would I resand the wedge to make one side "flatter" than the other? I've never had to deal with one tgis far off center, and am not looking foward to making this. I love it when they just go together and sit dead center with no issues!

I'd possibly increase the taper on the wedge to increase the outward bow, but it looks like your better working the pivot end. Try using a washer on the one side, inside between the scale and blade. Try one side or the other and see what the blade does, how it reacts. Will tell you if you need to sand the inside, or possibly move your pivot pin some.
I hate when it doesn't just fall into place.
Good luck and try lots of washer scenarios before committing to drill or sandpaper.
Cheers

Originally Posted by WW243

Right Tommy, but there might be someone like the old Tom that will see that sign and rip it off the 'bobwire'
Sneaking in a question here because I like this little corner of the world..is there an optimum distance between the end of the blade and the wedge?

I like them as tight as possible, however, as restoring, it is what it is!

Alllright. Going back to post 1277 here, the razor I completed there has responded wonderfully to another regimen on CroOx, pile of leather. This morning's shave was quite a treat! Purposefully grabbed AQV after to check for 'burn'.
T'was none!

Originally Posted by RezDog

@prodigy,
because you have not pinned the wedge end you can torque your scales a little at the wedge end, and then re drill or reposition your wedge pin and get that blade to sit straight. You could also unpin the pivot and adjust how it sits in the scales with a little sanding. The moving the wedge end I do on occasion if I know I am dealing with a crooked razor. I also typically pin the wedge first unless I know something is off kilter. Henckels 14 happens to be near the top of my favorite razor list.

I just looked back at your pictures and you are in full mock up without any pins. I should wear my glasses I suppose.

i remember trying to use that sanding of the pivot end method, and i could never figure it out. ill look up that thread again and see if i understand it better. i dont think the washer idea mentioned is going to be enough to correct the issue, and i dont like the idea of having a bunch of washers. the razor has some pitting here and there, but it has the factory mirror finish and zero hone wear.

First things first, unbolt the top and see if the pin-holes are even.



If not, saw back and forth with the bit, putting a bind in the right direction. Make certain a bit of leaning is possible the direction you want to go.

You can also pin it up with the blade in a bind to push the pins over.



A tiny bit at the pivot means a lot at the end!



Before you do anything, look at where the tang goes into the scales. If the tang is hitting one side and pushing the blade over, sanding on the inside of the offending scale may be in order.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

First things first, unbolt the top and see if the pin-holes are even.



If not, saw back and forth with the bit, putting a bind in the right direction. Make certain a bit of leaning is possible the direction you want to go.

You can also pin it up with the blade in a bind to push the pins over.



A tiny bit at the pivot means a lot at the end!



Before you do anything, look at where the tang goes into the scales. If the tang is hitting one side and pushing the blade over, sanding on the inside of the offending scale may be in order.

I'll post some better pics in a bit. It's basically because the razor is warped. One side sits flat, the other sticks way up it the air. The pin holes should be straight, I used a drill press, but I'll check that as well. Thanks for the tips!

Some ideas in this thread! http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ng-blades.html