Thread: Hone of the Day

I've been using the Chosera 1k for a few years now and I absolutely love this stone! I'm in the process of TRYING to thin down my collection. I was taking pictures of several blades to post for sale and this Crown & Sword had a big ol chip in it. I figured I'd better work it out and set the bevel before I take pics to sell it. I threw on a couple layers of tape, whipped up a thick slurry with a DMT and worked the chip out. I mostly used half stokes with the spine slightly raised, varying angles to maintain the blades slight smile. Chip gone in a few minutes and bevel set in a few more. Killed the edge and went down to one layer of tape with no slurry and the final bevel was set in no time with very light pressure. This stone is an absolute monster with slurry, but is able to finish with such a nice, light(for 1k) scratch pattern. I know none of this is news to anyone. I was just thinking about how great this stone is and figured I'd share. This blade took a pretty nice bevel too.

Just to add a little to Mike's post, here are some images of fingerstones in 'development'. The first image is raw fingerstone stock with a razor for scale. The stock has been broken down into thinner layers but it's nowhere near ready to use. I use a cheap wood chisel to split the stones as do the folks at Ohira according to Alex. Wear gloves, it's easy for the chisel to go in directions other than the one you want. Some stock needs to be sawn if it won't split but there's a lot of waste.

The second image shows more refined stock, the top row is still too large and too thick except for knife bevels. The second row shows thinned fingerstones backed with mulberry paper and lacquer, but still probably too large for polishing a razor unless maybe it's a wedge. Since fingerstones really need to be thinned and sized for the specific use, you can't really go much further until you have a project ready. I make them like this so when I have a project there isn't so much work to do to get ready. I thin mine just like Mike does, on a diamond plate.

The third image is my Takeda paring knife with some use on it as the bevels are tarnished. I used the little kiita fingerstone to clean and bring out the difference in appearance between the hard and soft steel. I raise a tiny bit of slurry on the corner of a diamond plate then transfer it to the bevel and rub with the fingerstone. If you have a tiny fingerstone you can polish the hollow of a razor with it as Stefan does with the tamehagane razors. It's a labor of love BTW, and you may well have to have a differently shaped fingerstone for a stabilizer or spine as opposed to the hollow.

Cheers, Steve

I received this 34 Heckles yesterday . I don't have time for a full restoration at the moment, so I just cleaned it up a tad because I am desperate to try this vintage steel.

I popped off the tang end pivot and sanded the scales and blades down with some 1200 grit glass paper. Then I oiled it up and re assembled it.

You can see there were chips in the toe and heel , the heel chip being a bit more nasty than the toe.

I used 2 pieces of tape and went straight onto my Atoma 1200.
Using light rolling X's until both chips were nearly gone.

Then I hit the Shapton 500 for only a few laps.

Ready to hone , I killed the edge and started on the Chosera 1K with slurry and only rolling X's

After setting the bevel I killed it on my finger nail and brought it back to life with the Chosera and water only. Light strokes.

Then onto my Nakayama and my new Botan, white n soft.

I used Botan / Tenjyou / Mejiro / Koma, all with one thickish slurry each and no dilutions.

Finally I created a DMT slurry on my very hard Tomo and transferred the slurry to my Nakayama .
This slurry I watered down 3 times and finished with about 20 slow strokes in a weak watery slurry.

I find that softer metals react better with a slurry from a harder tomo Nagura and the harder steels react better when used with a softer Tomo stone.

The steel in this blade reminds me of vintage Sheffield steel from a honing point of view..

Lastly I did 100 laps on linen and 102 on Cordovan ..

Today I will shave 8 days growth off (its only a tiny blade)

Cheers guys.






Just shaved with this little fella. Wow truly special..

Another 6 in this weekend all finished ready for posting Monday morning.

What was the AP Donovan like to hone Jamie? I think they are made in Pakistan or China even though they say they are German made.

If rice paper or mulberry paper is not available for backing, plastic wrap, tape or cellophane from cigarette pack works good. Glued to stone w/ contact cement and then broken to allow for flexibility to conform to blade curvature. Narutaki stone w/karasu


Sashikomi finish polishing with homemade nugui oil formula. Processing nicely. Mike

Originally Posted by markbignosekelly

What was the AP Donovan like to hone Jamie? I think they are made in Pakistan or China even though they say they are German made.

Mark I get them in regular awful scales big heavy mixture of wood and metal very unbalanced, they do respond to the stones and take a good edge that I can say, how well they shave and how long they keep their edge is something I can't answer as I've never used one.

Honed up a GD66 last night. Using my Naniwa's 1,3,8&12k then 15 laps on some .5 micron lapping film. Followed by a few licks on a piece of leather mounted to a substrate. Leather loaded with FerOx all resulting in a nice smooth shave.

Tom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by JOB15

I received this 34 Heckles yesterday . I don't have time for a full restoration at the moment, so I just cleaned it up a tad because I am desperate to try this vintage steel.

I popped off the tang end pivot and sanded the scales and blades down with some 1200 grit glass paper. Then I oiled it up and re assembled it.

You can see there were chips in the toe and heel , the heel chip being a bit more nasty than the toe.

I used 2 pieces of tape and went straight onto my Atoma 1200.
Using light rolling X's until both chips were nearly gone.

Then I hit the Shapton 500 for only a few laps.

Ready to hone , I killed the edge and started on the Chosera 1K with slurry and only rolling X's

After setting the bevel I killed it on my finger nail and brought it back to life with the Chosera and water only. Light strokes.

Then onto my Nakayama and my new Botan, white n soft.

I used Botan / Tenjyou / Mejiro / Koma, all with one thickish slurry each and no dilutions.

Finally I created a DMT slurry on my very hard Tomo and transferred the slurry to my Nakayama .
This slurry I watered down 3 times and finished with about 20 slow strokes in a weak watery slurry.

I find that softer metals react better with a slurry from a harder tomo Nagura and the harder steels react better when used with a softer Tomo stone.

The steel in this blade reminds me of vintage Sheffield steel from a honing point of view..

Lastly I did 100 laps on linen and 102 on Cordovan ..

Today I will shave 8 days growth off (its only a tiny blade)

Cheers guys.






Just shaved with this little fella. Wow truly special..

I just knew you were going to enjoy that,Joseph.
Ya just can't go wrong with a Henckels.
Welcome....to the other side.[emoji48]

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

Mark I get them in regular awful scales big heavy mixture of wood and metal very unbalanced, they do respond to the stones and take a good edge that I can say, how well they shave and how long they keep their edge is something I can't answer as I've never used one.

Ive seen a few of them on various websites and they say the steel used is "like" Japanese Shirogami.
My spidey senses start to tingle when I read the crap like that. Then again ive have a GD that performs quite well...