Thread: What Do You Have In The Mail Right Now?

Loving the rattler grind, Jamie. In my eyes Sergej is one of
the best custom makers out there.

So yesterday I got my Clauss 11/16 in the mail. Yea I know, day late and a dollar short but still....I can't wait to try this one out!

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Belt sander belts:
Aluminum oxide, 150, 220 & 400
Attachment 334440

Graded blue micron finishing, 600 & 800
Attachment 334441

Hopefully this should give me more flexibility for regrinding. All I have now are 100 aluminum oxide that I inherited with the sander from my Dad.
Also this should help with finishing the Herder blanks I bought that are pre HT

I have some of those. What do you think a good HT cycle would look like? I was just gonna wing it with a magnet, take it up another 50f or so above non magnetic, hold for a half hour, quench in Park 50 at 120f, then temper. That won't be my first rodeo but I am far from expert and i don't know anything about the normal heat treat regimen on these blades.

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

I spoke with Sergej sometime last year about making me a custom 8/8 rattler grind based on an old Sheffield Fredrick Reynolds, well this is how the story goes, he tried to make the razor for me several times only to fail, after about the fourth attempt he told me he couldn't do it and the rattler grind was too difficult, so that's where we left it, I wished Sergej good luck and told him I will keep in contact, well today out of the blue I received a wonderful gift from Latvia from Sergej a beautiful 8/8 rattler grind, the noticeable difference being how light the razor feels in hand, it's a pretty hollow grind as well, I gave it a shave today and it performed as you would expect from a RigaRazor.

That's some awesome grinding.

Originally Posted by CrescentCityRazors

I have some of those. What do you think a good HT cycle would look like? I was just gonna wing it with a magnet, take it up another 50f or so above non magnetic, hold for a half hour, quench in Park 50 at 120f, then temper. That won't be my first rodeo but I am far from expert and i don't know anything about the normal heat treat regimen on these blades.

30 minute soak seems excessive imo. Most of the time I bring up to temp and hold for 10 minutes, alloys like 10XX steels, 52100, etc. With something like O1 which needs a longer soak I'll do 20 which is the minimum recommended on the data sheet I have but for the small dimensions of a razor even that is probably a bit OTT.

For quench I use Parks AAA unless I have a steel like 1095 when you need the speed of something like Parks 50 which I keep around for such purposes. If you quench a steel which has a slower cooling curve like O1, or a deep hardening steel like 52100 in a very fast oil such as P50 you can get quench cracking in thin sections.

Ultimately though there is no way to know what to do unless you know the alloy the blank is made from, you could look at the alloys currently in use in Solingen and work around that. One alloy I know in use is DIN 1.2210, heat treat can be found online.

Things are starting to line up. Today I got this King Edward blade in the mail! Thank You Paul! This should clean up with some work (actually lot's of work) but will be worth it. It has good steel from heel to toe so that's a good thing. The only thing I worry about is the scrim on the face of the blade. I've never worked with a blade that had scrim. Any advice?

Try starting 'High' by that I mean the least abrasive such as some Mother's Mag and Wheel Polish on a cloth or newspaper (paper is abrasive in itself), or some other polish such as mass, or blue magic and evaluate after that.

Then maybe some 0000 steel wool with the polish. Then maybe some 1000 grit wet and dry on a cork backing.

You may find that a little patina looks good on that blade.

Originally Posted by thp001

30 minute soak seems excessive imo. Most of the time I bring up to temp and hold for 10 minutes, alloys like 10XX steels, 52100, etc. With something like O1 which needs a longer soak I'll do 20 which is the minimum recommended on the data sheet I have but for the small dimensions of a razor even that is probably a bit OTT.

For quench I use Parks AAA unless I have a steel like 1095 when you need the speed of something like Parks 50 which I keep around for such purposes. If you quench a steel which has a slower cooling curve like O1, or a deep hardening steel like 52100 in a very fast oil such as P50 you can get quench cracking in thin sections.

Ultimately though there is no way to know what to do unless you know the alloy the blank is made from, you could look at the alloys currently in use in Solingen and work around that. One alloy I know in use is DIN 1.2210, heat treat can be found online.

Exactly. I don't know what the alloy is. And those blades are probably 50 years old or more so I don't know if that alloy was even around then. But anyway, I'm thinking that you are likely right, about the soak time. I just thought that maybe Paul might have already looked into that and have some idea of what temps, etc would work best. Well, i don't want to drag this off topic. When I am ready to do something with the Herders, I will post a thread.

You guys would probably laugh at me. I used regular charcoal in a charcoal lighting chimney stoked by an air mattress inflator. I used a pair of channel locks to pull it out to do my magnet test then after non-magnetic put it back in for, oh...about yay long; probably long enough for me to hum the final Jeopardy tune a couple of times in my head. Then I quenched it in mineral oil, wiped it off with a paper towel and washed the residual oil off with lava soap in my sink. Then I did the tempering in my toaster oven but hey, I did have an oven thermometer in there. What?!? I'm not a total half ass...

I have a care package from Texas enroute, I am not sure what’s in it but I sure hope it gets here before I have to go to work. I’m very excited.