Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Geezer

Hmmmmn!
Attachment 276937

Those, on the other hand, hone-up super easy!

Originally Posted by jmabuse

Razors are small, so this will last a long time:

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-ER.../dp/B00M0TLQ66

I seen they sell it at walmart.com too. Guess im just going to have to order some. Thanks for the link.

Hi Folks,A request...
When quoting, please remove/ delete the photos/ links from your reply. The photos do take up a huge amount of storage space on the servers.
I used to get my butt chewed regularly for forgetting that fact and request.
~Richard

I try to always practice what I preach.

Originally Posted by cudarunner

As far as I'm concerned ANY and ALL celluloid needs to have an eye kept on them. Better safe than sorry.

While I've never heard of it happening to razors, I've read of knife guys who have stored their vintage knives with celluloid handles in a box or such together only to open it a year or two later and find then entire group rusted beyond help.

So yesterday I rummaged through my seldom used razors and they are just kept on a shelf and not in a display of any kind and found this and it wasn't like that not so long ago.



The bottom is in celluloid and the one that was by it is in wood. It's rather apparent that the bottom razor will be freed from it's enemy.

Bummer Roy. Hope it cleans up easy. I guess sense mine are d8splayed i should notice if something goes bad.

Originally Posted by Gasman

Bummer Roy. Hope it cleans up easy. I guess sense mine are d8splayed i should notice if something goes bad.

Don't develop a False Sense of Security about having the razors on display where the are more readily seen. Only the front scale was gassing the back of the blade looks untouched. Only when you would pick it up would you see that the rust was slowly moving across the spine and then find the damage on the other side (that is IF it would have been the back scale going to hell).

The top razor should be a piece of cake, the bottom will lose it's gold wash/at least it wasn't a really valuable razor. I was able to salvage the collars. I traced the scales for a pattern for new ones now just to make new ones.

Note: Glen (GSSIXGUN) turned me onto Kroil Oil, the stuff is great! A drop on one side, let the oil creep for a bit, turn the razor over apply a drop and let it sit for a bit. I like it much better than WD40 but the WD does have it's uses.

Finally got these scales finished! Was originally going to use these on a Henckles Fridor blade, but it has quiet a bit of hone wear. I recently found this Griffon XX model 00, great blade with broken scales and decided to use these scales with it! I have several Griffon " Carbo-Magnetic" razors, this one is before the C--M trademark days and its the only model 00 I have seen.
The scales are ivory paper micarta they finish up looking like polished bone or antique ivory!
Stay Sharp!

Originally Posted by cudarunner

Note: Glen (GSSIXGUN) turned me onto Kroil Oil, the stuff is great! A drop on one side, let the oil creep for a bit, turn the razor over apply a drop and let it sit for a bit. I like it much better than WD40 but the WD does have it's uses.

"Don't oil it, Kroil it!" goes back in my life to the Forties and worked well then also. I also use it for machine shop lube. For a moving join like a hinge, the graphited product not only penetrates but lubes.
JMO
~Richard

Thanks guys, I have book marked that site and will order some for delivery for my next trip to the US.

I have managed to clean-up my blades and scales. Light polishing with outback's 'blade bling' and did the hot-stamps with the little wax sticks, also from outback.
next to blue the tangs, then assemble with Austin's silver collars....