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Thread: What are you working on?
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09-21-2019, 12:06 PM #17131
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- Sep 2009
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- Plymouth, UK
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- 313
Thanked: 19Thanks! I will try thinning the scales at the pivot in future.
I had already considered making thrust washers from a plastic bottle, not because of using clear scales, but as an improvised workaround when I didn't have brass thrust washers. But that could work. When the pivot was first pinned, it looked fine, but when it was oiled, the oil collected around the washers and seems to absorb the light creating a dark patch.
On the plus side, I had always wondered how the oil behaved at the pivot and I'm glad to see that it does collect in what seems to be a fairly stable pool around the wear washers. I had also wondered whether the bearing surface was between the scales and washers or between the washers and tang, it seems to be between the washers and the tang, the washers stay stationary relative to the scales.
As for honing and stropping, it went very smoothly. Are you wondering about the angled spine edge? I didn't really feel any significant difference. I haven't tested the razor yet, but I have a hunch it will be good. It seems people to speak well of Fontana razors.
Update on the microtome coming soon...
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09-21-2019, 01:09 PM #17132
Monty-I made a set of scales from exactly the same blue clipboard material years ago as an experiment; it can work on smaller, lighter razors. I think they look kinda cool, just more brittle than the usual .125" acrylic stock.
In other news, has anyone heard from Tom? I sent him an e-mail. They keep getting hammered by these flood events in the Houston area.There are many roads to sharp.
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09-21-2019, 01:18 PM #17133
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- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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- 6,553
Thanked: 3215You can make thrust washer from brass sheet, cuts easy with a punch, or just smash a brass washer with a hammer and re-drill the hole. I don’t oil plastic washers I just put some Frog Lube on the whole blade before assembly and some on the inside of the scales at the pivot. PETE is very slippery, by itself. I have been using PETE on horn with good results.
Been using Frog Lube paste, for a while as a lubricant and as a metal protectant. Put it on a warm blade, (hot water or heat gun to heat) with a small paint brush and wipe off excess. Works great on guns and protects knife blades from, (reduces) fingerprints. Also, if you remove the pins on your doors lube and replace, it is as if they are on ball bearings and silent.
The test of good fitting scales is how they strop, flip and shave. The other day, I honed a razor for a guy with big thick clunky scales and while it looked ok, it felt very uncomfortable, as if I would drop it at the flip. Those are the razors that cut strops.
As you continue to rescale razors you will pay more attention to vintage scales and find the similarities in the comfortable ones and copy them.
I keep a book with a tracing of each of the blades and scales of every razor I disassemble. With the brand name and any stamping, for reference. I have used it multiple times, but usually make scales very similar in size to the scales that came off, unless I feel it was rescaled, then I refer to my book.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Montgomery (09-21-2019), ScoutHikerDad (09-21-2019)
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09-21-2019, 01:58 PM #17134
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- Sep 2009
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- Plymouth, UK
- Posts
- 313
Thanked: 19Useful tips, many thanks!
All the scales I have made so far have been copies of vintage ones. I have already started keeping patterns, a book is a great idea. But the point you make that certain scale shapes go with certain blades is a very valid one. Unfortunately, this Fontana blade came in a pair of scales which did not seem to be original, because the point was binding on the wedge, so I started from scratch. I think this razor looks ok now, but there is something missing from the overall balance in the aesthetic.
With respect to stropping, the scales do feel a tiny touch chunky, but the razor does still flip and strop fine. I wonder if bevelling the edges of the scales would help in this respect, it seems that only the thinnest vintage scales do not have bevelled edges. That would be a lot more work on a pair of scales such as these, made from 2mm plastic sheet. I do notice that 2mm is on the thin side for vintage scales, but they do not feel chunky with a bevelled edge.
As I am sure others do, I find the single most important thing for stropping is a nice firm pivot, if the scales are flopping around it is a non-starter.
I also make my own brass thrust washers, 0.3mm brass sheet, drill a row of holes, and then punch them out with an office hole punch, upside down with the bottom off so I can centre the drilled hole in the middle of the piece to be punched. Ideally I would use slightly thinner brass for smaller blades, I will arrange this by and by if I really feel the need.
Edit: double-checked, this plastic is a touch over 2mm thick, probably 2.2mmLast edited by Montgomery; 09-21-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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09-21-2019, 02:08 PM #17135
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- Mar 2012
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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- 17,304
Thanked: 3226Yes, I bevel any scales I make which seems to aid in stropping the razor. A good tight pivot also helps in that regard.
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
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The Following User Says Thank You to BobH For This Useful Post:
Montgomery (09-21-2019)
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09-21-2019, 02:12 PM #17136
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- Mar 2012
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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- 17,304
Thanked: 3226Just had a thought, strange feeling that was, you might find the PDF in this thread of interest when making scales.
https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...-patterns.html
BobLife is a terminal illness in the end
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BobH For This Useful Post:
Johntoad57 (09-23-2019), Montgomery (09-21-2019)
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09-21-2019, 03:48 PM #17137
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09-21-2019, 05:19 PM #17138
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- Plymouth, UK
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Thanked: 19
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09-23-2019, 09:52 PM #17139
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- Sep 2009
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- Plymouth, UK
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Thanked: 19I found a picture of a near-identical razor online:
Though the tang stamps differ slightly, the model number - 45 5/8 - is the same, and the blade looks identical. Interesting thing is, the scales in the picture are identical to the ones that were originally on my Fontana, except, as I said above, they seemed too short, and the blade was binding on the wedge, so I assumed they were not original.
Question is, can celluloid scales shrink like that? If they are the original scales, I may see if I can make a bit of space and re-fit them.
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09-23-2019, 10:08 PM #17140
Yes, they can shrink like that. It happened on several of my razors. "Red Imps", among others, were renowned for it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to nipper For This Useful Post:
Montgomery (09-23-2019)