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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #7661
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeJay View Post
    Cleaning up this Otto Busch "world Master". It's got some staining and lots of little rust spots. I'm hoping to get it cleaned up without any sanding or greaseless. This Dialux Vert is an awesome compound that may be up to the task. I assume it's got lots of CroOx, but I suspect there are other abrasives in it as well. It's almost as aggressive as Emory, but leaves as nice a finish as any rouge. Its not so great for scales though.
    From the Data Safety Sheet:

    Trade name:

    Unipol® Dialux green

    General chemical description

    mixture of fatty acids, paraffines, abrasive polishing minerals, chromoxide

    After thinking about it I decided to have the writing on the box translated/it's pretty much you will find online:

    The Dialux Vert is especially recommended for fine brightening with polishing, special steels, very hard alloys, chromium, cobalt chromium, platinum etc.

    To be used on circular brush, felt or cotton disc.
    Last edited by cudarunner; 02-18-2017 at 02:28 AM.
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    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

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  3. #7662
    I love Burls....... and Acrylic HARRYWALLY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeJay View Post
    Cleaning up this Otto Busch "world Master". It's got some staining and lots of little rust spots. I'm hoping to get it cleaned up without any sanding or greaseless. This Dialux Vert is an awesome compound that may be up to the task. I assume it's got lots of CroOx, but I suspect there are other abrasives in it as well. It's almost as aggressive as Emory, but leaves as nice a finish as any rouge. Its not so great for scales though.
    Attachment 257053
    Attachment 257054
    Typical age marks, but I noticed there's hardly any hone wear. Once cleaned up, it should be a looker!
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    Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....

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    Senior Member AlanQ's Avatar
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    Well I been busy lately and havent had tiem to do anything but decided to try and learn how to remoce scales without breakign them. All my early attempts were failures. So I just hacked away at it on some that already had broken scales. I used a small anvil with a hole in it but seems the hole was too big and I continued to break scales. Then decided to use a piece of aluminum with a hole just big enough for the pin to go through and I started to have some succes.
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    These were all broken to some degree before I did anything
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    Then moved on to better ones. The last is a nice Dubl Duck Satin Edge set of scales that had that had an IROS KEEN blade in them. Managed to remove the blade without damaging the scales!
    Now I just have to find a dubl duck to go inside them. Either that or trade them to someone for a different set of scales.
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  5. #7664
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I learned early on that using a punch and hammer will result in busted scales most of the time.
    JMHO
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  6. #7665
    Senior Member AlanQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I learned early on that using a punch and hammer will result in busted scales most of the time.
    JMHO
    How do you do remove pins?

  7. #7666
    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
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    The Busch cleaned up pretty well. The perfectionist in me wants to go back and do some sanding but it really is pretty nice as is.
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    The wedge is a little piece of tubing. I've seen this on other razors and always assumed the it was added by someone that didn't have a spacer handy. These are obviously the original scale though and the factory style pins all match. Either way, it's serving its purpose and will stay in there.
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    B.J.

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  9. #7667
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanQ View Post
    How do you do remove pins?
    Best explained here beginning with post #27; http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...le-halves.html
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  11. #7668
    Senior Member AlanQ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Best explained here beginning with post #27; http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...le-halves.html
    my original attempts at drilling out the pins all ended in failure, think if I dimpled the crown of the pin better I might be more successful
    Thanx
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  12. #7669
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I find if my approach is to flatten the pin, start a hole with a split point bit in a pin vise and then use a drill press with a split point bit, all goes fairly well, most of the time.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

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  14. #7670
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanQ View Post
    my original attempts at drilling out the pins all ended in failure, think if I dimpled the crown of the pin better I might be more successful
    Thanx
    I use a small file to flatten and remove as much of the pin as possible and I do that on both sides as sometimes you need to 'Gently' work back and forth. I also have a pinning block that I drilled a hole completely through and then made a slight depression and that really helped!

    However I now use a product that I was turned onto by a friend who lives in the boonies of Idaho. I find it of great use. However it can stain bone, Ivory and certain light colored horn.

    While marketed as a 'penetrating oil' my friend referrers to it as a 'creeping oil' that is widely used in gunsmithing. It's great stuff!

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    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

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