Thread: What are you working on?

Working on my Honing this week while I wait for some nickel silver rod to arrive in the mail
I thought I would get some honing out of the way as it was piling up, so progressed from the shed to the back deck,
first time honing sitting down also which is a damn site better on the back
20 blades all up to do (some not shown are in the bathroom for shave testing) from touch ups of dulling or harsh edges but most are full bevel sets to finisher


progression is
Norton 240/600 ( not shown for serious bevel set & chip removals) laps as required
Nani 1K - circles & X stroke as required
Norton 4/8K - 20 laps X strokes each
Nani 12K - 20 laps X strokes
Chrox 0.3 on Balsa - 10 laps X strokes
Ferox 0.1 on Balsa - 10 laps X strokes

strop
50 laps on Felt
100 laps on leather (English Bridle or Roo)

yes that's about 5,000 laps set(10,000 passes) in total by the time I'm done should get the muscle memory locked in

shave test 4 str8s per shave @ 1/4 face each (unless they are harsh then straight back on the refresh pile )
shaving every 2nd day should be done in a couple of weeks LOL

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

They can be made, have made them for my use,but spend two days making 50 of them and try to find a market,not going to happen.

I agree with ya on that one. It takes some time to make those. I was looking at a link last night where someone made a few but they needed to work the bugs out & get 'em right. That's why I'm holding on to the two I have. I used the cats eye washes from The Imperial Shave on the bay to substitute them.

Working on my first razor. Learning a lot along the way. Sharp enough to shave, but heading back to the grinder. Made from the broken end of a farrier rasp cloven in twain. Going to try and find a wheel in the workshop to get a slight hollow going on this monster wedge.

I just got through making up some knives made from farrier rasps a few months ago...long story short is that the steel will not get into the high 50HRC, even with a salt water quench. Maybe yours is of better steel than the 6 rasps a farrier friend gave me.

a OL'ROBERTS "WARRENTED"

a slight sanding , some new scales , and some edge work should have this in the rotation .. have never restored an older razor so I will take my time and give it the love that it so deserves ..

Originally Posted by gooser

a OL'ROBERTS "WARRENTED"

a slight sanding , some new scales , and some edge work should have this in the rotation .. have never restored an older razor so I will take my time and give it the love that it so deserves ..

I know you can do it brother!

Man! I am thinking some sort of curved sheet metal jig and the light swoop of a Dremel cut-off wheel would render the original pattern on the new scales. Then, some hand-sanding. Would be a pain!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Man! I am thinking some sort of curved sheet metal jig and the light swoop of a Dremel cut-off wheel would render the original pattern on the new scales. Then, some hand-sanding. Would be a pain!

you know ive been sitting here thinking about some way to try to mimic that design .. defiantly some experimenting with some spare pieces of horn b4 before I whip them out

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Man! I am thinking some sort of curved sheet metal jig and the light swoop of a Dremel cut-off wheel would render the original pattern on the new scales. Then, some hand-sanding. Would be a pain!

That is a great blade!
I would rather see him use a, shaped to the job, scraper to do that work they are cheap to make from trash sets of simple carving tools from China.

Scrapers are sharpened flat and the cutting edge is burred over to make a cutting edge for pulling the tool along the work.
How To Use & Sharpen a Wood Scraper
Dental tools are great also. So is any old Xacto or carving blade or a piece of spring steel.
YMMV
~Richard

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Man! I am thinking some sort of curved sheet metal jig and the light swoop of a Dremel cut-off wheel would render the original pattern on the new scales. Then, some hand-sanding. Would be a pain!

Originally Posted by gooser

you know ive been sitting here thinking about some way to try to mimic that design .. defiantly some experimenting with some spare pieces of horn b4 before I whip them out

That's might be easier than you think....................what about a checkering file on some horn material? It might be a little work getting the basic grooves cut in it for the contour but once they're in there, it would follow the grooves until deep enough.