Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by MikeT

Steve, that tip is looking great! goes well with the blade. What kind of scale material you gonna go with? Do you to the tang by hand sanding? I used to not, but now every one I do by hand to keep the lines sharp.

I haven't been on in a couple of days. Some important issues came up. MikeT I will try to use some old horn scales if I can find some appropriate for the blade. I haven't touched the tang yet. Probably with sandpaper & I like to do like Rez said. Unfortunately I have been preoccupied trying to get some things resolved.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Hey MikeT, for what it's worth I have never drilled out a set of scales, (well one i did, hated it) I always use a file, or dremel wheel if I am not saving the scales. I wrap good electrical tape around the end I am working on, the pin head bulges through still, and within a pass or two on the file, tape on the head is gone and I am shaving just head and the tape protects the surrounding area from file marks. By the time I expose the washer I can usually work the blade and pop that side off. Then the rest is cake.
Regarding pinning itself, I have the 1/16th hole in my vise base for holding it for the initial cut and tapping. After I flip, I cut near flush to the top of the washer. File flat again and that little bit left above the washer is all I need. Any more works against you. I normally use a 4 oz peen, but have used a 6 and 8, just choke up on the bat, as it were.
But you said the key yourself, practice..

B52, I have done it the same exact way protecting the scales when removing a pin.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

As Rez spoke, split-point bit, go slow, let the bit do the job. a drop of oil on the tip helps, smeared off with the finger. I find it easier to begin using the drill press. Spinning very slowly, about 250 RPM or so.
Stop, blow off the shavings so you can see. tilt the razor to dig toward the middle if not there, straighten up as you are.
Very little pressure, no slips, no heat! Wobble a bit as through the collar to gnaw the peen off.
Then as-unpinned, a sturdy pair of pliers holding the pin, collar against a small nut (I use an old Dremel buff middle). Smack the pliers and the other collar will usually go up the pin.

I have also tilted my scales to get it back centered again. Guys at my old job used to try to drill out a broken bolt & went sideways, especially a steel bolt in aluminum, but they would come to me & I would make as much of a flat spot again on it so I could make a mark with a center punch & I always got 'em out of a jam. I'll be back around........
Thank you all.

Originally Posted by MikeT

I plan on restoring both to re sell. If I restored them as fast as I purchased them, I'd be making some big money!
Attachment 213343

im not really into this to quit my day job(School), but it is nice to turn some decent profits to fund new toys and projects. Ive probably restored over 30 so far, and it is definitely a passion. i actually had a W&B Barbers Rattler, and i believe the grind is done in the opposite direction, resulting in a thinner blade edge. So, rattler or faux frameback, its still a nice razor. I cant wait to hold it, should only need a light polishing to remove those scratch marks. i was lucky enough to find it for a BIN price on ebay, at a fraction of what they have been selling for these days

Damn the torpedos, the first of many (expected) coats of TruOil has been smeared on.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Damn the torpedos, the first of many (expected) coats of TruOil has been smeared on.

I hope it works out for you Tom. Let us know since it can't be the same a neatsfoot oil & is made for wood like gunstocks & more. Best of luck.

Originally Posted by MikeT

Hey you guys talked about this recently, just can't find the posts. What's the best way to fill those horizontal de-laminating cracks in horn?
Someone said simply neetsfoot, someone said CA.
Neetsfoot is easier I'm sure.
Outback did you end up trying CA on that? If so was there much sanding needed?

My Bengals is soaking in neats foot oil right now

Originally Posted by prodigy

im not really into this to quit my day job(School), but it is nice to turn some decent profits to fund new toys and projects. Ive probably restored over 30 so far, and it is definitely a passion. i actually had a W&B Barbers Rattler, and i believe the grind is done in the opposite direction, resulting in a thinner blade edge. So, rattler or faux frameback, its still a nice razor. I cant wait to hold it, should only need a light polishing to remove those scratch marks. i was lucky enough to find it for a BIN price on ebay, at a fraction of what they have been selling for these days

That's the right idea! You have done a lot of restores, then you definitely understand. I haven't done as many restores, but enough to know, then again I'm a slow worker! Lol
Money for new toys is what I tell myself every time, i wish that I could hold myself to that.. hehehe
Yeah, I have two blades marked rattler from different manufacturers, and they don't look any different from other various hollow grounds, and they don't look like the ones like yours and others i have that the spine is regular thickness but the blade is thin the whole way.. perhaps we should call these "super hollows"..
Some people were calling these faux framebacks, there was a thread with it, a general consensus was reached that rattler was the best term and not faux frameback, but that rattler is also somewhat more of a marketing term and less descriptive of the exact grind except that it would make more sound.. The same as the "Hamburg Ring".
There was speculation about that term, but ultimately most likely named for a grind that produced a ring/sound.. Germany was for a time well known in the advances of blade grinding, and the "Hamburg Ring" became a coined term, very well known, and so we see blades so labeled from England as well.
I love this stuff. Like a window into the past, one of those old windows laid with mercury and so with those wavy distortions, just clear enough to see well, but with some distortion to give your imagination some room..

Originally Posted by MikeT

I plan on restoring both to re sell. If I restored them as fast as I purchased them, I'd be making some big money!

Just like to add. I bought some W&B for restoration and re sale.

After restoring 3 ,or part restoring ,I still need to sort out scales and I have another one in the post

I've come to the conclusion that I cannot sell them.

I don't care for money , money comes n goes, these blades are here to stay.

Also I don't think I'm gonna buy a new razor again.
I have spent so much money on new razors but now I know I can spend ,say £50 ish and get something that is beautiful (underneath), with a history, and as a bonus they take an edge like not many can match IMO.

I'd rather sell my Maruka. (Never)

The love of the save, or attempt there in is the theme of this thread. What happens after is a personal choice.
If you don't love something, why the heck would you want to rub it a thousand times??
lol.
Tuff oil on horn?? Just crazy enough to work? Look forward to seeing how this one turns out Tom. Hoping for the best!

Me, I've decided to put this Cottage Dorko find back together with the new scales Steve graciously sent me before I tackle that WB.
Steve did a super job on the finish, as you all saw. I will post the completion, when completed.
Cheers.

Oh god, see what I'm sayin?? Just snagged this off the bay! All she needs is a honing


W&B + Eagle = AWESOME!!

I'm putting some work in right now, trying to work fast, get a couple projects out of the way so I can move on to some crazy ideas I have.
So I'll get the pics out later on.
But I'm waiting on some last materials for the 7 day, so that will be another couple weeks.
For now some broken blade rescues need finishing.
Hope you guys are having a great Friday!