Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by engine46

Tom
What's up with the two wedges? I know you're only going to use one.

One is thicker than the other. Test fit shall tell which one!

My picture also shows a bug-bite I had missed. Just drug the lifetime supply of wood filler from the fridge. Still have to add water each time I use it. Smeared some into the bite. Tomorrow, some steel wool, Sharpie, and more Neetsfoot the next day should hide that sucker. Take pics of your stuff and post them. ALL the flaws come to light!

Originally Posted by MikeT

Okay cool, I thought so, figureded the CA fills scratches ..
I always sand between coats of CA which sometimes is tricky not to remove the layer just applied but I figure its also for leveling and not just to build thick coat.
Outback, you try any of those other products? Anything new on that front?
I still have yet to try Mirror Coat on scales. But it is thicker and still perhaps when using 2 part epoxy finish, thin CA would be good for initial layers.

No not yet..
Im still wondering about the fishing rod finish....FLEX COAT.

yeah! Maybe a lite coat of CA to penatrate, sand and apply the rod finish,..... that should work!

Another i thought of, but it takes a bit of time to build the layers for that deep wet look, may be great for this burl is.
BIRCHWOOD CASEY
Tru Oil gun stock finish....

Restored a couple of gun stocks with that , but is it tough, takes a beatin, briar patches barley scratch it. If it does, it will polish right out.

Originally Posted by engine46

Well, I did the edge last night & was up until 3:30am doing it until the chips were gone. I just went out into the garage & ground the toe down & had a glass of water with me to cool it off. I then hit the face of the blade slightly with 80 grit greaseless because there was rust on the blade.

Attachment 213135

Damn dude, would have never knew, if i didnt see the other pics first.
And slow down.....
You'll be done before your anvil gets there. [emoji106]

Originally Posted by outback

No not yet..
Im still wondering about the fishing rod finish....FLEX COAT.

yeah! Maybe a lite coat of CA to penatrate, sand and apply the rod finish,..... that should work!

Another i thought of, but it takes a bit of time to build the layers for that deep wet look, may be great for this burl is.
BIRCHWOOD CASEY
Tru Oil gun stock finish....

Restored a couple of gun stocks with that , but is it tough, takes a beatin, briar patches barley scratch it. If it does, it will polish right out.

Dude! I think I may do the Tru Oil finish on these horn scales. Just to see. It does impart a great finish!

Originally Posted by outback

Damn dude, would have never knew, if i didnt see the other pics first.
And slow down.....
You'll be done before your anvil gets there. [emoji106]

Mike, I did most of the work last night getting the chips outs the edge. I didn't breadknife it either. I hate making lines on a stone or a DMT. I went sideways in a swopping motion at about a 45 degree angle on a DMT & it was coming out fast. Then today I went out in the garage & ground it down slowly, cooling it off every few seconds because that heavy part of the blade would start to get warm quick. I ground on it & lightly used it on the buffer with the greaseless for about 30 minutes. I should have taken pics before I ground it.

Originally Posted by outback

No not yet..
Another i thought of, but it takes a bit of time to build the layers for that deep wet look, may be great for this burl is.
BIRCHWOOD CASEY
Tru Oil gun stock finish....

Restored a couple of gun stocks with that , but is it tough, takes a beatin, briar patches barley scratch it. If it does, it will polish right out.

I did a couple pens and a walnut pepper mill in Casey. You are right, slow to build up but beautiful finish when done Mike.
Haven't tried it on scales yet, maybe when I redo my Bell I will give it a shake.
Cheers..

Steve, that tip is looking great! goes well with the blade. What kind of scale material you gonna go with? Do you to the tang by hand sanding? I used to not, but now every one I do by hand to keep the lines sharp.

Originally Posted by MikeT

Man that tip is looking great! goes well with the blade. What kind of scale material you gonna go with? Do you to the tang by hand sanding? I used to not, but now every one I do by hand to keep the lines sharp.

Yer a nut, MikeT. Just so you know!

You may be busy with other things but you are turning them out! That is looking great!
Today I realized a couple things.
1. Im really no good at drilling out pins and removing blades. Please tell me the special tricks. My bits are the ones meant to prevent wandering, but they heat up and melt the scales if plastic. And still slips off pin to gouge scales.. Im great at some things and suck at others.
2. I need to get better at pinning. Practice I guess, But I sat there and tapped this pivot pin forever and could not get it any tighter... not tight enough. Sometimes no problem.. sometimes just wont get any tighter. I dont want to force it.

Anyway, looking good, man dont you hate when a tiny little piece of grit gets on the cloth! ugh!

Hey MikeT, for what it's worth I have never drilled out a set of scales, (well one i did, hated it) I always use a file, or dremel wheel if I am not saving the scales. I wrap good electrical tape around the end I am working on, the pin head bulges through still, and within a pass or two on the file, tape on the head is gone and I am shaving just head and the tape protects the surrounding area from file marks. By the time I expose the washer I can usually work the blade and pop that side off. Then the rest is cake.
Regarding pinning itself, I have the 1/16th hole in my vise base for holding it for the initial cut and tapping. After I flip, I cut near flush to the top of the washer. File flat again and that little bit left above the washer is all I need. Any more works against you. I normally use a 4 oz peen, but have used a 6 and 8, just choke up on the bat, as it were.
But you said the key yourself, practice..