Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by RezDog

So I have been working on this Old English razor and I wanted to try to work on the patina effect again. I am uncertain it this is where I want it or if it is a swing and a miss. I am looking for some input.

Looks like a hit to me Shaun, FWIW.
Still has the age to er. Very nice looking blade! What kind of scales are you going with?

Originally Posted by Matheus

I am still learning. I'm used to the ringing feedback of the full hollow blades, and is somewhat bizarre the muteness and weight of the Viking. I also was spanked by it on the hones, took me lots of sweat to get it shaving well on the translucent arkansas. Next time I'll hone it on the coti to see what happens.

I have not tried to hone it but know that stainless steel is very "tough".. takes a long time.
I learned on a 1/4 hollow so was accustomed to the muted sound. Very close shave that Viking.

Well I gotta wake early.. Goodnite Gents! I hope to have some good pics for you tomorrow.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Looks like a hit to me Shaun, FWIW.
Still has the age to er. Very nice looking blade! What kind of scales are you going with?

She came dressed in a set of ebony scales and I am at least going to put them back on to start with. I am thinking it may be a little dark. What would be just the thing would be some streaked blonde horn. I will see when I get her original outfit back on. I am not certain the ebony would have been original. I also have camel bone as an option.

Originally Posted by RezDog

So I have been working on this Old English razor and I wanted to try to work on the patina effect again. I am uncertain it this is where I want it or if it is a swing and a miss. I am looking for some input.
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Shaun, it's strange how many different makers used the Old English blade quite a bit during a certain era. Now I see a John Bingham. I have one that says G Wostenholm. They are very similar to a Wm Greaves & Sons I have that I got cheap but I saw a Wm Greaves & Sons just like it Sunday go for around $122. I think I got mine for less than $35 shipped. Those Old English blades are heavy too. I have another that is a T. Scargill.

I have tried a little research on mine but haven't really turned up anything solid. All I have really found out was that sometime in the early 1800's Barber registered that mark and then gave everyone else a bad time for using it. It is on a lot of Frederick Reynolds scales that are likely mid 1800's. I think I might lighten the patina effect on the blade with a little 2K with WD-40

Originally Posted by RezDog

I have tried a little research on mine but haven't really turned up anything solid. All I have really found out was that sometime in the early 1800's Barber registered that mark and then gave everyone else a bad time for using it. It is on a lot of Frederick Reynolds scales that are likely mid 1800's. I think I might lighten the patina effect on the blade with a little 2K with WD-40

That sounds good. It will have like a satin finish to it.

These last two posts bring up something I was thinking about last night while hand sanding. Is it better to sand with WD-40, or similar, or sand dry? Are there times when one would be appropriate and not the other?

No pics from last night's session. The changes from last Friday's update are hard to see.

Originally Posted by engine46

Skaun, it's strange how many different makers used the Old English blade quite a bit during a certain era. Now I see a John Bingham. I have one that says G Wostenholm. They are very similar to a Wm Greaves & Sons I have that I got cheap but I saw a Wm Greaves & Sons just like it Sunday go for around $122. I think I got mine for less than $35 shipped. Those Old English blades are heavy too. I have another that is a T. Scargill.

Dang Steve! You have some really nice blades tucked away.. I'm starting to wonder if there is an end to that vast collection..
Love the Wosty!
What blade is scheduled for the new material? ^_^

Ohhtay, MikeT. I see you down there.....
I was inspired by my Charlie Lewis razor this morning....

How's about a Searsasori? I could sandblast the pin-hole and have a buddy tig it up. Henry Sears & Son would still be on the tang.
Would be lots of work.

Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings

These last two posts bring up something I was thinking about last night while hand sanding. Is it better to sand with WD-40, or similar, or sand dry? Are there times when one would be appropriate and not the other?

No pics from last night's session. The changes from last Friday's update are hard to see.

I start with 000 steel wool dry to get the gunk off. I then go with a small effort with 1000 dry and see where that may take me, then I either go to 1000 with WD-40 or drop to 600. Occasionally I will go to 400 dry then 600 dry then 600 wet and then up but sticking with wet. Wet does 2 things, it keeps the scratching even and a little lighter and it helps to clear the debris that plugs up the paper. I use 1/2 a wine cork for my backer, split length wise. Typically I only sand to 2000 and then 0000 steel wool with mothers and then just mothers. My final clean is typically CrOx on an old leather shammy.