Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by outback

It's for when you pinn that beautiful work you do.

It should rest on something as beautiful as it self.

Just don't put it on the floor, and forget it. [emoji16] [emoji51] [emoji31]

Oh no! A finely-polished hammer will follow and (half) the razors I restore and shave with will not need to go back to the workshop and tightened up. They will miss that trip!

Originally Posted by outback

Can't take pics of honing.
Ok... Lets drag the blade this a way.
Turn the blade over. No!!! The other way .... DAMMIT!!! [emoji5] [emoji5]

We can be grateful that this is not a honing thread!

Here is my next project.
The blade is as good as done.
BUT the scales are one that should be interesting... baleen.
Notice the striations on the surface. Since examining this and working with it a bit Im quite sure that what many of us dismiss as horn on old blades is in fact baleen.
Very tough and flexible but care needs to be taken not to chip the edges. When cutting it down to size leave a good 1/8" wider than the scales will be as the bandsaw will cause some places to de-laminate. From there use sanding to bring it to the exact size.
Ill keep you guys posted. probably get some work done tomorrow.
Needs to be flattened. And the slabs are not level thickness with the upper edge being as thick as it needs to be no thinner, and the bottom edge almost 3 times thicker.
Sent Steve some pieces, his are thicker. Looking forward to seeing what he does with them because he is very good with horn..

Interesting stuff Mike, and a very nice blade to wrap!

I suppose a liner is in order?

Originally Posted by engine46

It's at the heel & I would like to remove the stabilizer if I could. That part is going to be cut off anyway. I'll get over this crud but it's that crap that just keeps lingering & not going away yet.
.

Well, If you get the chance to hold a heel break fixed blade that has had the stabilizer removed and one that still has the stabilizer, IMO it feels much nicer to have the stabilizer still on there as your thumb presses up against it giving more control..
But perhaps it doesnt look as good... looks vs function...

Tom have you checked out that Henry Sears? Silly looking with that big chunk missing but hold it as if to shave... What say you???

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I suppose a liner is in order?

Yes I was wondering if that would be wise... What should I use? African Blackwood can be shaved very thin and is still strong. G10? Ive never liked synthetics. I like celluloid ONLY for historical value. But G10 is superior. Ugh.
What would you use?
If I heat and press it to shape, it will eventually (probably) warp back. So yes a liner is ideal.

The blade is a beautiful wedge. Compact blade feels small in hand. But is heavy thick little blade.

Originally Posted by MikeT

Well, If you get the chance to hold a heel break fixed blade that has had the stabilizer removed and one that still has the stabilizer, IMO it feels much nicer to have the stabilizer still on there as your thumb presses up against it giving more control..
But perhaps it doesnt look as good... looks vs function...

Tom have you checked out that Henry Sears? Silly looking with that big chunk missing but hold it as if to shave... What say you???

Yeah. What you have done is the only thing which could be done. Well-done, I may add. I am leaning toward a tang treatment.
Give me another day.

It's important to note the orientation of the fibers. AFAIK, whale fringes have long fibers dorso-ventrally extended. Cut them along (longitudinally) and you'll get a long-fibered, strong, blank. If you cut them transversally, probably you'll get a weaker object.
If the edges tend to chip, I would stabilize it with CA or epoxy coating after finishing the cutting/sanding work.
I like the liner idea. Can you easily obtain an old big silver jar or teapot to cut liners from its walls? A bent/smashed one can be obtained for cheap and hammered back to straight sheets after cutting. If the baleen you have is translucent, the clear color of underlying polished silver can enlightens things up.
And... c'mon, silver is far more age-appropriate material to consort baleen. Noble, beautiful. Get rid of this bunch of paper in your pockets. You'll have a ton of silver to make lots of liners.

My next WB recovery after taking a few days off and a few easy wins.

Pre England stamp with a neat recess on the lower tang. Should clean up well. Noticed the letters AW stamped inside both scales.
Probably from assembly but first time I noticed them inside a set of scales.