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Thread: The Butchered Blade

  1. #1591
    Senior Member Matheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    ...Noticed the letters AW stamped inside both scales.
    Probably from assembly but first time I noticed them inside a set of scales.
    Some black scaled heljestrands have M***K stamped inside, and I noticed some Tornbloms with numbers. I only saw this markings inside black celluloid rounded scales.
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    The "A.W." scales I own were removed from my bigger Klas Törnblom, currently dressed in turtle (2nd from left).
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    Sheffield and Eskilstuna cutlers outsourcing scales from the same guy... good to know.
    Last edited by Matheus; 10-08-2015 at 03:12 AM.

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    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matheus View Post
    It's important to note the orientation of the fibers.
    And... c'mon, silver is far more age-appropriate material to consort baleen. Noble, beautiful. Get rid of this bunch of paper in your pockets. You'll have a ton of silver to make lots of liners.
    Matheus if I could only drink a beer with you and pick your brain!
    Now that you mention it I notice the fibers, this helps me to know the material better... Again this is the type of information that is so valuable when working these projects. Thanks man.
    Yes, silver that is a great idea! Ill see if I can find a cheap sterling silver platter! Silver is far more appropriate.
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    My next WB recovery after taking a few days off and a few easy wins.
    Attachment 214683
    Pre England stamp with a neat recess on the lower tang. Should clean up well. Noticed the letters AW stamped inside both scales.
    Probably from assembly but first time I noticed them inside a set of scales.
    Ive noticed those before and always wondered.. probably nothing but manufacturers use details but I thought they were only on newer than late 1800s blades..

    EDIT: Dang Matheus thats a serious array of swedish steel!!! Nice
    Last edited by MikeT; 10-08-2015 at 03:12 AM.
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  4. #1593
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Hammered flat silver is a neat idea for a set of liners! I have used brass shim stock for them before. Buy the thickness, or thinness you want and trim to fit. Maybe try both to see which compliment the material better?
    And I did too re: stamps. It's like the scales are newer than the blade maybe.
    They are broken anyway and feel like bakelite, or celluloid.
    Last edited by MikeB52; 10-08-2015 at 03:16 AM.
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  6. #1594
    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Matheus, you have more than one Viking? I still need to rescale my Viking after giving the scales... am thinking ivory. The shave with the Viking is really great I think!
    “You must unlearn what you have learned.”
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT View Post
    Yes I was wondering if that would be wise... What should I use? African Blackwood can be shaved very thin and is still strong. G10? Ive never liked synthetics. I like celluloid ONLY for historical value. But G10 is superior. Ugh.
    What would you use?
    If I heat and press it to shape, it will eventually (probably) warp back. So yes a liner is ideal.

    The blade is a beautiful wedge. Compact blade feels small in hand. But is heavy thick little blade.
    I did line a very old set of bone scales with G-10 once
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ostenholm.html
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  8. #1596
    Senior Member Matheus's Avatar
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    Unfortunately not, Mike. This is the only Viking I have, and became beautiful with the scales you sent me. I post a photo of it, rescaled, some time ago at the "Svenskt Stahl" club thread.
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...-steel-38.html
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  9. #1597
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Most any composite scales I have seen have some sort of numbers, etc under them. Old Bakelite Ern Ators have 5/8 and 6/8 under them. Horn should have nothing?
    Thin G10 liners are super-solid for custom scales, I think!
    Last edited by sharptonn; 10-08-2015 at 03:30 AM.
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    I rest my case.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    So I have been working on this Old English razor and I wanted to try to work on the patina effect again. I am uncertain it this is where I want it or if it is a swing and a miss. I am looking for some input.
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    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  11. #1599
    Senior Member MikeT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Most any composite scales I have seen have some sort of numbers, etc under them. Old Bakelite Ern Ators have 5/8 and 6/8 under them. Horn should have nothing?
    Thin G10 liners are super-solid for custom scales, I think!
    I dont deny that G10 is the most logical. It is super strong and does not react to the environment.. So it will not cause as bad of a problem a other liners might. Ideally the two materials would expand and contract the same depending on RH and Temp.. but G10 is usually the best choice as it does not react to environment and so is a safe bet, that and the strength and good looks..
    I love silver. Though it has some problems too... Coming in contact (silver liner and carbon steel) havent looked at my chart but disimilar metals.. and the weight would be significant if the ideal thickness for strength is used...
    Damn, hard decision. I like expensive materials. And have never liked synthetic. But Im also trying to be more utilitarian...
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  12. #1600
    Senior Member Matheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeT View Post
    ...The shave with the Viking is really great I think!
    I am still learning. I'm used to the ringing feedback of the full hollow blades, and is somewhat bizarre the muteness and weight of the Viking. I also was spanked by it on the hones, took me lots of sweat to get it shaving well on the translucent arkansas. Next time I'll hone it on the coti to see what happens.
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