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Thread: The Butchered Blade
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09-24-2015, 08:41 PM #1131
Hey Guys, just dropped by to say I've been following this thread since day one and enjoying all the ideas and creativity going on here! Also got sucked into your madness and got an old James Barlow ( posted in Show and Tell ) and plan on Stealing umm, I mean borrowing a bunch of your ideas to clean it up while keeping the patina and fantastic character of this ancient blade.
Keep up the good work and banter! Enjoy all the craziness here!!
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09-24-2015, 10:48 PM #1132
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09-24-2015, 10:53 PM #1133
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09-25-2015, 12:24 AM #1134
Piddled a bit today on my FBU project. Doing some mock-ups has shown me this. Seems back when I repaired one of these scales with epoxy (which was broken in half), it caused it to be a tad shorter than the other one. Turns out that is a good thing as the lead wedge I selected (the original one) will protrude a bit from all sides after I sanded everything even. I like to tap the lead wedges in to make all tight and even before sanding them smooth. This will get me that advantage.
I have also begun to polish AJKenne's brass collars using the pin-vise to take them to the buffer. I swear it gives them a whole new dimension as I can see another step to them as polished! Is it just me?
Last edited by sharptonn; 09-25-2015 at 01:21 AM.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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09-25-2015, 02:11 PM #1135
Hey you guys talked about this recently, just can't find the posts. What's the best way to fill those horizontal de-laminating cracks in horn?
Someone said simply neetsfoot, someone said CA.
Neetsfoot is easier I'm sure.
Outback did you end up trying CA on that? If so was there much sanding needed?“You must unlearn what you have learned.”
– Yoda
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09-25-2015, 03:09 PM #1136
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Thanked: 4206I've used the thin CA to pull back delaminated horn. Worked very well. Used a thick toothpick to hold down the area until it kicked over.
Sanding off the residue with 400 g took off all the residue and the toothpick tip as well."Depression is just anger,, without the enthusiasm."
Steven Wright
https://mobro.co/michaelbolton65?mc=5
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09-25-2015, 03:19 PM #1137
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- Dec 2013
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- Virginia
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Thanked: 237This thread is awesome! I've been following it for a while. I've got two butchers on the way, one needs more work than the other. I plan on restoring both to re sell. If I restored them as fast as I purchased them, I'd be making some big money!
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09-25-2015, 03:38 PM #1138
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- Aug 2013
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- Orangeville, Ontario
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Thanked: 4206Nice blades prodigy!
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09-25-2015, 03:59 PM #1139
I've been getting some hand sanding done on my Frederick Reynolds French point this morning. I dropped down from 600 to 400 grit. I would drop to 200 if I had some on hand. Anyway, I am hoping to get considerable sanding in over the weekend in between chores.
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09-25-2015, 05:03 PM #1140
I plan on restoring both to re sell. If I restored them as fast as I purchased them, I'd be making some big money!
[/QUOTE]
This look like great projects, in just the right shape to be fun and gratifying. also they are good models, not as common. The second one I like a lot, some call it faux frameback I believe incorrectly, I believe proper name for that style blade is a rattler.
I was talking to a well known restorer and straight razor seller a couple years back, he told me (I realized the truth of his words later) that if it was money he was after, then getting a job at Wal-Mart would pay better.
There are some ways to do it right and actually make good money, but if you charge by the hour, you can count on below minimum wage... unless of course you are very fast with a good set up and consistently get blades for cheap.
Please do not allow this to take the wind from your sails, just to maybe remind that it is the love of strait razors, restoration, customization, and everything between that we love. Love the work. And a good shave.. and cool gear! It will make you rich of mind and spirit! Hehe“You must unlearn what you have learned.”
– Yoda
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The Following User Says Thank You to MikeT For This Useful Post:
outback (09-25-2015)