Thread: The Butchered Blade

Shorty is honed for tonites shave.
Being there were some chips at the heal and toe, (very small) I decided to hone a slight smile to the blade. Quite a challenge, with such a short edge, and keeping it proportioned to the blade.

It was a great learning experience, from beginning to end.

A very true" SHORTY " indeed. [emoji5]

Pic of the smile

Originally Posted by outback

Pic of the smile

Good job Mike! Looks like it'll do the job well plus a smiler as well.You work fast. I used to be faster until my last back surgery. When ya get in an accident with an 18 wheeler, they always win!

Originally Posted by RezDog

I have never had good luck with any of the cheap tubes of epoxy sticking to horn. Are you using any particular epoxy or prepping your horn in any particular way?

I have great luck with Loctite in the twin syringes. Seems to work every time and accepts dust well as-mixing. Everything clean, no oil. roughed-up at the joints.

Originally Posted by engine46

Good job Mike! Looks like it'll do the job well plus a smiler as well.You work fast. I used to be faster until my last back surgery. When ya get in an accident with an 18 wheeler, they always win!

Well Steve..
A few blades back, I got tired of spending soooo much time setting a bevel at 1000 grit stones.
My thought was how stupid, for the work i was doing.
So I purchased a 220 & 400 grt.
Nanni to go with my others.
The 400 makes a perfect bevel setter for me, with one layer of tape, wich is removed when I switch to 1000 grt.

Once the 1000 removes the 400 scratches... the rest is a breeze!!!

Originally Posted by outback

Well Steve..
A few blades back, I got tired of spending soooo much time setting a bevel at 1000 grit stones.
My thought was how stupid, for the work i was doing.
So I purchased a 220 & 400 grt.
Nanni to go with my others.
The 400 makes a perfect bevel setter for me, with one layer of tape, wich is removed when I switch to 1000 grt.

Once the 1000 removes the 400 scratches... the rest is a breeze!!!

Hell yeah, Outback! Unless they are pristine, a very worn DMT before going to the 1k!
Fresh meat. (don't say that in the honing forum, however!)

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Hell yeah, Outback! Unless they are pristine, a very worn DMT before going to the 1k!
Fresh meat. (don't say that in the honing forum, however!)

DMT...?
I hear y'all talk about them, have to check m out. Sound aggressive..

A 325 is very aggressive, outback. I use one for all sorts of chores until it wears down to the smaller diamonds. Then, use them for edge repair. Even more worn, to flattening/lapping stones.

For edge repair and lapping, a 600 would be about right.

I have three DMT's. One is a larger one for lapping stones & guaranteed to be within .0005" flat. I used to use it for lapping my stones until I got the Shapton but that was when I had the money to do so. The DMT's have come in handy for other chores for flattening things like the insides of my translucent horn & it seemed to work well making the brass wedge & much more. I have the 600 which I like a lot & a coarser one for when I first use something on them to f=do it quicker, then move to the 600. Once done, its finer wet or dry sandpaper, then polishing time.

Steve, thanks to you, it's one of the nicest/most significant five razors I own.
The inlay and the etching work like they were meant to be together. The black works with the matt finish of the etch. And the shave,, well it's up there in my top 5 for a reason.
Thanks man.
It being featured SOTD is a nice testimonial to it's looks as well. If I have only 1 DORKO in my kit, I'm happy with it being this one. Can't imagine being able to turn the 444 into a finer blade.

Regarding the DMT I have a well worn 600-1200 I use for damaged edges and initial bevels, sometimes. Still prefer the slow approach on the 1000k king or norton myself for most blades.