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Thread: The Butchered Blade
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01-26-2016, 12:41 AM #3651
Looks super, Steve! Funny how the pattern in one side of something makes it look bigger than the other when they are the same size! No worries! As-pinned, you can only see one side at a time!
Should turn up a treat!"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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engine46 (01-26-2016)
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01-26-2016, 12:47 AM #3652
Yeah thanks Tom. I think I'm done on the belt sander for now & should start my sanding progressions because once sanded, they will get thinner.
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01-26-2016, 12:59 AM #3653
Be certain to post pics along the way, Steve! Mockups, etc.
We needs to see!"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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01-26-2016, 01:03 AM #3654
Okie dokie Tom, sure will!
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sharptonn (01-28-2016)
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01-26-2016, 01:28 AM #3655
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engine46 (01-26-2016)
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01-26-2016, 10:04 AM #3656
Well guys, I mocked it up & the blade doesn't center just right but it looks like it when it is open but as I close it it goes more to one side. I held it up sideways at the light & it looked like the blade is bent at the tang so I took it apart & held a straight edge on each side & one side shows a gap while the other side hardly shows any gap. I guess when that blade got broken it took a devastating blow. I will get the chance to use Charlie Lewis's (spazola) tang straightening method with the heat block paste which I have some for the Barbersori also. I should be able to put the blade in my vise, with has some homemade soft jaws I made out of angle aluminum, & apply some paste, heat it up & straighten it. The blade also doesn't want to pivot so freely in wood so i took some brass spacer washers which are .017" thickness & I hammered them on my old anvil until they were around .008". I then had to drill the holes back out & I de-burred them on a DMT which made them .006" thin.
Last edited by engine46; 01-26-2016 at 06:15 PM.
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01-26-2016, 12:44 PM #3657
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engine46 (01-26-2016)
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01-26-2016, 03:01 PM #3658
So Steve.....Lots of other ways to center blades in scales. Just gonna do the paste and torch, or perhaps try something else first?
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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01-26-2016, 03:59 PM #3659
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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Thanked: 3215To clean jimps I use a worn 600 grit greaseless wheel with most of the grit worn off. It works great for removing all the rust and gunk and leaves them gleaming. Then hit it with a Chrome Oxide wheel to make them shine.
600 greaseless is the grit I use most. I keep 4 wheels in rotation in various degree of load from full to almost none. A well worn wheel is great for shining up a razor that just need some cleaning. It will not leave any deep scratches and a bit of greased compound like Chrome Oxide will bring out the color after 600.
Don’t know if it would work with cotton Dremel wheel, might.Last edited by Euclid440; 01-26-2016 at 04:59 PM.
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Thug (01-26-2016)
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01-26-2016, 06:37 PM #3660