Thread: What are you working on?

Nice scales Jerry. Like the profile.

Originally Posted by outback

You need some lead, Jerry.?
Its nice when their balanced properly, JMHO.

Attachment 285364

Accidentally get glue on the tang?! JK
You mold your own lead wedges?

How thick a blank do you guys usually start out with?

I have worked at making some of my very old razors look like they have been loved and cared for for 150 years. Giving them the some what mottled with light and dark grey on the steel. The one effect that I have not been able to achieve is making scales look faded with the obvious grain and soft silver colour. So I would cherish the fade in those scales and perhaps match them to a very nice old blade.

Originally Posted by RezDog

I have worked at making some of my very old razors look like they have been loved and cared for for 150 years. Giving them the some what mottled with light and dark grey on the steel. The one effect that I have not been able to achieve is making scales look faded with the obvious grain and soft silver colour. So I would cherish the fade in those scales and perhaps match them to a very nice old blade.

I've got the original blade. Glen is restoring it for me.
If they were just faded I would just give them a good soak. My only problem with leaving them faded is won't the repair work really stick out?

That is going to depend on the repair work. You can hide the repair work with dye if you need to. I would target trying to keep the aged look and blend the repairs to the aged look.
If that did not work out as well as I wanted I would fall back on the dye job. I have not done any dye work on scales, but there are quite a few threads about using hair dye to achieve all kinds of effects.

Originally Posted by JP5

How thick a blank do you guys usually start out with?

Wood blanks i cut out are cut to 1/8" thick then sand down from that point after a basic shaping. As far as lead goes, ive used stick-on tire weights before. Smack then with a hammer a time or two and then shape to the wedge then make to fit.

I might clean the blade some more. All I need now is a chasing hammer and something hard to work on while peening.

Lots of things can be used besides a hammer. Spoon is one of the most choosen for replacement. A heavy tool from the tool box that has a flat spot can be used to peen on. Just be sure its smooth finished.

This is for if your in a hurry. Ha.

That is going to depend on the repair work. You can hide the repair work with dye if you need to. I would target trying to keep the aged look and blend the repairs to the aged look.
If that did not work out as well as I wanted I would fall back on the dye job. I have not done any dye work on scales, but there are quite a few threads about using hair dye to achieve all kinds of effects.

Originally Posted by RezDog

If you have ever strapped a razor that is way out of balance, you would find it is not comfortable. A well balanced razor rolls easily in your fingers and makes stropping way more fluid. A slight variance is ok but much off and it’s a no go for me.

That's my exact reason, Rez.

Originally Posted by JP5

She's worth it!

Outback has helped me out. These were glued back before I had read anything about dye or horn powder so the break stands out. I filled two drill marks following Outback's advice with better results (of course).
Here they are after an overnight oil soak.

Attachment 285386

Once I get those finished I need to figure out the best way to approach these.
Large crack, big chip in the edge, idiot drill mark, and super faded. I wonder if wood dye would be a good idea before soaking in oil?
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Remove the pins, give them a good scrubbing and let dry completely. Put something in the pin hole that will spread the scales oh so slightly, drop or two of CA, remove spreader, and clamp the scale from the side. Let cure, sand till all is even. Then saok n polish, the color will likely come back to those