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Thread: What are you working on?

  1. #7821
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    Typically I do my horn repairs in epoxy, then dish them out slightly, then top them off with CA. Being the epoxy usually doesn't polish up, but the CA will. Like clear coating paint.
    Large amounts of CA tend to bubble from off gassing, that's another reason for the use of epoxy ( mix it with the bog oak Dave )
    Mike

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  3. #7822
    Giveaway Guy Dieseld's Avatar
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    Got it thanks Mike
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    Look sharp and smell nice for the ladies.~~~Benz
    Imperfection is beauty, madness is genius and it's better to be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring ― Marilyn Monroe

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  5. #7823
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dieseld View Post
    Got it thanks Mike
    Atta-Boy, Dave!!

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  6. #7824
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    When I do the dust/epoxy repairs, I never oil them til the end . I like to blend in the epoxy repairs as best I can by following the grain of the horn with coarse sand paper down to fine steel-wool. Get em like you want em! I also like to 'Paint' them with a Sharpie Magnum, rubbing most of that off as well.
    Apply Neetsfoot to the scales heavily with a q-tip all over. Flip and rub it in for several days.
    Wipe and done!

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    I don't think attempting a 'glass' finish is prudent.
    I, for one, appreciate the grain of the horn.
    Last edited by sharptonn; 03-02-2017 at 02:29 AM.

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  8. #7825
    Giveaway Guy Dieseld's Avatar
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    Thanks Tom, you guys here are so awesome! I am so lucky to have found this place and made such great friends.
    Your help is appreciated more than I can say
    Look sharp and smell nice for the ladies.~~~Benz
    Imperfection is beauty, madness is genius and it's better to be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring ― Marilyn Monroe

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  10. #7826
    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    I have managed to get a nice satin finish on new horn. The thing I have never been able to replicate is the look of old horn. I manage patina on steel just fine, but the technique to make horn look that way eludes me. When dealing with old horn my current thought is to get them clean, filled if needed and hydrated.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  11. #7827
    Senior Member blabbermouth Geezer's Avatar
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    My answer to a "old" finish on horn is using powdered pumice and applied, rubbed, with a dampened finger tip. It breaks down into finer particles as it is used. It gives a softer polish than modern polishes. From my renewing , it appears that many of the old scales were hot pressed and do not de laminate like some recent renewal scales available on line. YMMV~Richard
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  13. #7828
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    It is doable. The last one I did a long while back turned up pretty nice. http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...d-marsden.html

    So many more are still waiting!
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  15. #7829
    32t
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    Senior Member blabbermouth 32t's Avatar
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    I can put a patina on steel very easily and quickly but at the rate my horn is going it will take and estimated 100 years for me to do it.....

  16. #7830
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    That horn really came out nice!
    I need some help with this strop I just acquired.
    Its a WL Buck company. Russian tanned 885. The side in the pic was on the inside. I have not seen a textured strop before. The side exposed said belt driven on the top. Any info on this before I clean it up?Name:  20170302_191209.jpg
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    Last edited by Cheferik; 03-02-2017 at 11:35 PM.

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