Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Dieseld

Yes I did, and it's taking the bluing but just not as I hoped it would.

I haven't played with cold bluing much, so I'm not of much help. However you sounded like the bluing was going 'OK' with the exception that there was rust coming from some remaining pits I'm just wondering if there was some contamination in those pits that are causing you problems.

As I understand bluing it's actually a 'controlled rust'. So if the steel wasn't totally clean in those pits you could have two different types of 'rust' going on that don't go hand in hand well.

Just a thought.

I agree, I may just go back and w/d sand it off and start over. I'm not going to rush this, as I know getting in a rush will not have a positive result.

Originally Posted by Dieseld

I agree, I may just go back and w/d sand it off and start over. I'm not going to rush this, as I know getting in a rush will not have a positive result.

Basically you can't blue over rust. Your prep should include a chemical rust converter/remover. Birchwood Casey make one:
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refin...t-Remover.aspx

After bluing the piece, the chemical has to be neutralized or it will continue oxidizing the steel. There will be a remaining film that has to be removed with steel wool or some other form of agitation. If you're just going over the top with steel wool you will not be removing this film from the pitted and stamped areas. The entire piece should be rinsed under water and lightly scrubbed with a toothbrush or some other tool that will get into those areas.

Much appreciated guys

Dave.....Have I not shared the process?

No sir and that razor looks awesome

Originally Posted by Dieseld

No sir and that razor looks awesome

Look back 2 to 5,000 posts!

Ok the search shall begin

Did done it! You were paying no attention!
Since I never will find it back in these pages, here you go. Copy it?

Get the rust off. Sand it super fine if neccessary. Put tape over the edge, loosely. This makes a great grip for my left hand and protects the edge. Buff it if desired. Scrub it hard in the area to be blued. Fine steel-wool. Clean with new paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Scrub down in the stamps with the Q-tip. Set on clean hard surface to dry.

Then we begin. 3 repetitions of the following.

Using another new q-tip, dip in Birchwood Casey SUPER BLUE and smear on the tang, under and over.
Heavily saturated on the tang/tail, light along the spine and nose, if desired.
The q-tip and a magnifying visor makes it easy to apply perfectly without taping anything.

Wait one minute, Rinse under running water. Dry with clean paper towel.
Lightly buff with super-fine steel wool. See?

Do this a total of 3 time times. After the final light buffing with fine steel wool, oil it if you wish.
On these, I did the RubNbuff in the stamps, lightly steel-wooled it after, waited a week or so to lightly oil it. WD40 works OK. Sewing machine oil, 3 in one is great!