Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by WW243

The bones are looking great Mike! I'm surprised at the variation within each blank. At any point did you see the variation before staining? By looking at your photos, the scale on the left, post staining, has a section in the bottom that looks 'clear' and would rival ivory. Cool process

Here's the way they looked after initial flattening. The dark spot on the upper blank is the one with all the translucent sections. They just seems to become more noticeable after the tea.


Seems almost like a vein line or something in the bone itself that survived the flattening process. Spent a few hours dry sanding with 1800-2400 grit pads last night and I am going to leave them as they are now I think.
And yes I was thinking to try collarless for my first time on this set. Never done that before so any tricks would b appreciated.
Cheers.
And Tony if you bought the 1x8s they can make scales and wedges out of that length. Assuming you bought a pair. I wish he carried 2x6s in the bone but no luck.

Tom did a pretty good tutorial here
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...le-halves.html
There is more than just his collarless pinning in the thread but it is part of it.

Originally Posted by RezDog

I soaked some of that same bone in hydrogen peroxide for a bit to get the color nice and even and white. It worked fairly well. It is an old taxidermist trick for bleaching skulls.

Here is a Thomas Turner Everlasting I did a few weeks ago using the hydrogen peroxide that RezDog recommended I try. One scale came out white as new snow. The other (back scale) still has a slight yellow tint toward the wedge end but it is a vast improvement in blending the color contrasts. I soaked the scales for 3 days. Is the yellowish section what you are referring to as translucent? Seems to me to be the densest part of the bone.

By contrast here is an early Joesph Elliot I restored with the original bone scales just cleaned and buffed. They still retain the color you can only get with 165+ years of age.
I have not tried using tea yet to dye bone but it's on my list of things to try.

Both are gorgeous Karl.

Thanks Mike. I'll try the tea dye on my next set of bone scales. I'm thinking if it doesn't come out to my liking I can always throw them in the peroxide.

Hey guys my cable and Internet went out on me so I'm down until they come check it out tomorrow.........[emoji17]

B52, That looks really great brother! I'm not used to doing this on my phone[emoji854]

Originally Posted by outback

I know this isn't the place for this, but you guys are the only ones that know about the honey horn scales that i took off my Tower Brand razor, and restraightened.

Well I've CAed the inside of the scales, filled a couple bug bites, sanded and polished.

But instead of the origanal blade, I took a look thru the blades Boss Sharptonn sent me.
Fitting all of them to the scales with micro screws, till i found one that filled out the scales better, and closed perfectly straight.

The blade only needed some light cleaning and polish, leaving a bit of pina
to keep the older look.

The blade chosen is..........
The Favorite, Unity Sheffield.
Attachment 213845Attachment 213846Attachment 213847Attachment 213848Attachment 213849
This is my first attempt at restoring horn scales. Hope y'all enjoy.

Hey Mike,
Was about to PM you about what happened to these scales! Goes way back to page 65, post #644. ( yes, I'm reading the whole thread from beginning )!
I just got my P heart Ford razor in with honey horn scales that need some repairs and I was wondering if/and how you fixed them.
How did you repair the bug bites? Did you use epoxy and mix some powder/color with it? How did you fix the delamination? CA?
Thanks for any help and ideas you can share! Would love to save the original scales if possible.
I'll post pics of razor soon and as always, thanks guys! Best ideas on the Net, not just SRP, ANYWHERE!
Thanks, Newell

thin CA works well for delamination issues on horn. Making a mix of sanded horn dust and ca will help fill in the damage. Although if slight enough, pure ca will work without additives.
colour matching the dark scales is easier than the honey ones.
Look forward to seeing picks of the Pitchford, (P-heart-ford) during it's work.