Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by outback

Things would have to be built in two layers. First is to build the last layer with the glitter design on it, and let cure. Then fill the mold with the clear resin, leaving enough room for the glitter layer, then set the cured glitter layer on top and clamp it to remove air bubbles...if there is any. (Vacuum forming would be best) like making marcata. Any other way, and I think the glitter will move all throughout the scales and break through the surface of the scales.
Giving a rough textured surface.
It has to be encapsulated inside the material

That's exactly what I was thinking............the last layer with the glitter design on it, and let cure. And yes, vacuum forming.

That, my friend is amazing ingenuity, and creativity. You should be an astronaut!

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Started out building my own from CD burner units from old PC's in the basement.
Then the realisation that my best stock burner head would only generate approx 300mW in the (red)633 nanometer wave range and wouldn't be up to my projects, I lazed out and bought a cheapie NEJE Chinese unit that was already up and running at 500mW and (blue) 445 nm wave.
It can print 512x512 pixel sized images from jpeg's, or approx 3.5 cm square. Can control the speed of burn, and speed of stepper motor for smoothness of lines, as well as preview your burn area with low power laser pointer to ensure the burn is where you want it.
Manual focus requirement for different heights of projects, but an OK starter unit for scale and tang projects.
If I need a bigger work area, I can reengineer the laser system and build a bigger plot table. Also, my CD burner units already disassembled make great replacement axis's for the ones on the machine if and when they fail
How much laser I need at home?? Still to be determined.. But I should be able to get over 1W and still be able to contain the rays and control the results.
Attachment 228588
Cheers gents.

Well, I am not speaking of doing it in a mold like they did as much as on top of a liner, doing 'pours'.
Vacuum would not be necessary so much as technique.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Well, I am not speaking of doing it in a mold like they did as much as on top of a liner, doing 'pours'.
Vacuum would not be necessary so much as technique.

I used the bar surface epoxy to make my desktop out of bamboo flooring. It was different than anything else I've ever used, but came out great. If the surface is level you can't hardly mess it up, except by being impatient.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Well, I am not speaking of doing it in a mold like they did as much as on top of a liner, doing 'pours'.
Vacuum would not be necessary so much as technique.

Yes ... That has come to mind as well. But...you need to seal the sides/edges of the scales. Or when you cut or sand the scales the color will be removed from the glitter, leaving only white or silver glitter exposed on the surface, and protruding from the scales.

Thats what happens if I sand through the clear on boats.

Originally Posted by outback

Yes ... That has come to mind as well. But...you need to seal the sides/edges of the scales. Or when you cut or sand the scales the color will be removed from the glitter, leaving only white or silver glitter exposed on the surface, and protruding from the scales.

Thats what happens if I sand through the clear on boats.

Yes, so you have this problem only on the edges, right?
You simply cut the edges a bit radically at angles to the liner, another pour of clear rounds it off.

Yeah....That!

I think this is where 'technique' comes in!

In retropect, it would seem the way would be to do it in a mold, adding layers upside-down.
Somebody just do it.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

In retropect, it would seem the way would be to do it in a mold, adding layers upside-down.
Somebody just do it.

That's why I was researching the idea of pouring acrylic into a mold & the video is what I came up with but there are more I need to look at. The next one was 2 parts of epoxy liquid which was where I stopped because I was getting tired. I'll research some more.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

In retropect, it would seem the way would be to do it in a mold, adding layers upside-down.
Somebody just do it.

Too damn cold outside. Resin would freeze before it hardens.

Oh what the hell.... I paid for the house. The little lady can deal with the stink, or go to her mothers house.[emoji38] have to do a little hunt for supplies.

I'd be the astronaut that botched the mission by cracking the window a bit to have a quick smoke around Uranus.
Was looking like the laser wouldn't do anything to the acrylic on my first test, even at full power it wouldn't penetrate the material even after I sanded it down.
I added a coat of ink to the topsurface thinking it might help, and it was surprising how things started cookin.


Pretty sure this is gonna work slick. Need to make the image slightly larger so the inlay sits just inside the burned image but with repeat passes the etch cut deeper into the material.
Once I wiped off the ink and sanded up the test piece I was happy with the test.

Cheers.