Thread: What are you working on?

Originally Posted by Gasman

I too make them larger and sand down to shape. Easier to sneak up on the shape.

Yep-Twice I remember ruining a pair of nice scale blanks when I eff'd up and got inside my line with jagged saw marks, then didn't have enough left to smooth it out. Live and learn.

Anyway, lately I have really been practicing the mantra that slow is fast in my shop. As this is only a hobby for me, I can take my time-make a wedge and cut/dome some pins one session, work on a blade another, just whatever I feel like doing. Getting better results that way too.

Nice project subjects and a sensible plan A-A-Ron.maybe sneak the last little bit up by hand?
For scales that I am going to make more than one set, I make an aluminum template and the use a guide bearing bit to trim them down close, then sneak up on the final shape with a file. It only works quick and easy if you have the set up for it. I know Mike does a similar thing with templates, and I got the idea from Richard.
:-)

Duck Satin Edge should have a satin finish. Take them to 1k, buff with 3m and a paper towel or clean loose wheel on the buffer.

Then do a 600 or Crocus paper finish. Crocus is a finer satin finish, (an old Wolfpack 34 tip) and with a new piece, wrapped around a clean cork, do single vertical pulls, slightly overlapping, you will get a very nice finish. Make sure everything is clean, including hands, one lose grit can muff a finish.

Your choice on a very uniform finish or hide some blemishes, depending on the level of surface prep.

Crocus is available here at Ace Hardware, about a buck a sheet, good quality.

Love the Ducks, shave a dream. Too bad so few survive.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Duck Satin Edge should have a satin finish. Take them to 1k, buff with 3m and a paper towel or clean loose wheel on the buffer.

Then do a 600 or Crocus paper finish. Crocus is a finer satin finish, (an old Wolfpack 34 tip) and with a new piece, wrapped around a clean cork, do single vertical pulls, slightly overlapping, you will get a very nice finish. Make sure everything is clean, including hands, one lose grit can muff a finish.

Your choice on a very uniform finish or hide some blemishes, depending on the level of surface prep.

Crocus is available here at Ace Hardware, about a buck a sheet, good quality.

Love the Ducks, shave a dream. Too bad so few survive.

Thanks for the tips, Marty! I actually have several sheets of 1k crocus cloth just for satin finishes. I remember Wolfpack's legendary blade work with the differentiated finishes between flats and hollows.



As I don't usually mess with full hollows much unless they are close to perfect, do you think my 1k crocus cloth will do the satin finish you are suggesting without foiling the hollow part of the grind?

I decided it was time to stop sanding on my Fredrick. Short of a full regrind and loosing the tang stamps this will always have some pitting. I went to 600 and then back to 400 on the blade faces. I just didn't like the shine with all the devils spit. Got a couple of horn blanks getting flat in the freezer for the new scales.

Front and back


One step closer...

Nice Freddy JJ-I look forward to seeing it in its horn scales. And you're right: all that pitting will look fine in a satin finish-character marks!

A-A-Ron, the 1K satin finish should be about making a uniform and predictable scratch pattern, and I doubt you will remove measurable amounts of material. You’ll be fine.

This has been a multi day project on a friend's Desert Eagle(44 mag). The initial hand sanding was a pain, as there always seemed to be a hand full of deep tool marks on each area. Lots of low grit sanding meant I had to pay close attention to keeping my angles Sharp. I'm satisfied with my results but not thrilled. This is the second pistol I've worked on and I enjoy working on razors much more.

It looks real purdy!

Do you think my 1k crocus cloth will do the satin finish you are suggesting without foiling the hollow part of the grind?

The Crocus I have is not grit marked, it says Crocus on the back, the finish is very fine and uniform. If you continue to sand it will polish. I suspect the grit breaks down. But if you do minimal single direction strokes it will leave a very fine satin finish. It removes very little material and is used for fine polishing for jewelry, and machine work like polishing bearing surfaces.

It is a light plum color, Google says it is 1500-2000 grit, using Crocus/Iron/ferrous Oxide/ (red rouge) as the abrasive. Which is why you have to go from a polished finish to lay down a satin finish.

Give yours a try and see what the finish is like.