Thread: What are you working on?

Sorry, Rez!

In the "on deck" circle for the burl blast blanks is green actually as a heads up.
A green swirled with the the right burls might look pretty cool I'm thinking so it's on the to cast list..
Just in case folks are interested..similar to the blue and red it shall be I expect...

Originally Posted by MikeB52

Working on the font for the Otto etch and I tell ya men, block script that's worn or deformed is impossible to clean up in paint programs no matter the zoom level you work at.
Case in point;
Attachment 261233
The three upper sets are actual new typed characters in a variety of TTF's, and the white on black is the original image off the actual scales, cleaned up as best I could.
Realizing the total image on the scale will be quite small maybe the sins in the original will not look as bad as I fear, and I am going to run all of them onto actual stock and then let the project manager decide,
They used unique spacing on the rows in the original that also were not easy to match up. For example, the upper row @ a font size of 16- normal character spacing and a lower row of say font size 6 would have the lower row too close to each other compared to the upper so I had to finesse row height as well as character spacing to get them as close as I have.
Anyway, that's what's goin on up here tonight.

This is looking AWESOME, Mike! It's true, on the original scales the letters were not perfect so I'm thinking perfect looking letters would look less than authentic? Whatever you come up with will be fantastic I'm sure, and very much appreciated. The work and careful consideration you are giving this project is amazing and I want to say another big THANK YOU! It feels pretty cool to have something of mine in your workshop/laboratory.

In the meantime, I'm going to repaint the lettering on the blade to try to get a brighter red. I'll follow (outback) Mike's suggestion and put a coat of white in the tang stamp first then follow up with red.

Originally Posted by xiaotuzi

This is looking AWESOME, Mike! It's true, on the original scales the letters were not perfect so I'm thinking perfect looking letters would look less than authentic? Whatever you come up with will be fantastic I'm sure, and very much appreciated. The work and careful consideration you are giving this project is amazing and I want to say another big THANK YOU! It feels pretty cool to have something of mine in your workshop/laboratory.

In the meantime, I'm going to repaint the lettering on the blade to try to get a brighter red. I'll follow (outback) Mike's suggestion and put a coat of white in the tang stamp first then follow up with red.

Make sure the white is good and dry before the red....unless you want pink.

Originally Posted by outback

Make sure the white is good and dry before the red....unless you want pink.

GAWD, Mike, those things are like neon! Where on EARTH did you............

Nevermind!

Originally Posted by Martin103

High grit hones doesn't always equal a smooth sharp edge, that we all chase.Perhaps it's the hand behind the stone, don't ask how I know...

I hear you! Some razors do not like my 16K Shapton Glass hone. I have found doing 4 to 8 very light , no pressure laps on my Coti. make it shave much better & smother after the 16K hone.

Slawman

A coticule is usually the last stone my blade touches as well. My face, especially my neck, is subject to irritation if the edge is too crisp from a high number synthetic. A handful of passes on the coti after my highest synthetic puts it right in the sweet spot for me.

Nearly ready to drop the hammer.
Went with the original scan as per consensus and have scaled the dimensions to those recorded off the originals.
Trialed it out on a scrap of corian as it gives a cleaner edge than wood and filled it for effect.

And Tuzi, appreciate the fine compliments, and your patience on the job. I'm thorough, not fast, hehehe

Looks very cool Mike, looks aged, like it's been around for years.

Perfect, Bruv!