Thread: The Butchered Blade

Originally Posted by MikeT

Okay so now that the discussion is for some going in the direction of heat... did anybody read my posts about that? Any comments?
A quick refresh: heating the scale material and also the inlay?
The lip around inlay from being sunk down into scale.. do you think it will be a factor?
Smoothing it out with flat iron like Teflon coated heated piece of metal? ... to lock it in...?
Yay or nay? Any ideas?
Outback, that tool is very cool! Makes your mind wander with the possibilities/applications...

...........?

OUTBACK! That looks just like you!

Heating the inlay alone is the way I'll be going, if I do go there. My thinking is they are so thin and would transfer the heat so quickly would be enough. Heating the scale would risk more than it would gain warpage wise and that localized heat, just where it's needed should be enough.
JMO, haven't tried it yet myself either. Like Outback's vinyl tool idea, very neat tool..

Why not experiment on an old broken scale if you have a good soldering gun. Clean all the solder off the tip with a file so no old solder sticks to the piece & heat the part up & see if it will met into the scale. I have a soldering gun that gets that hot.
If it works, pick the piece out carefully, smooth the scale down if any melted & squished out. Set the piece back in there to make sure it is flush or close to it. Next do the glue or epoxy job, then clear over it.

Originally Posted by engine46

Why not experiment on an old broken scale if yo have a good soldering gun. Clean all the solder off the tip with a file so no old solder sticks to the piece & heat the part up & see if it will met into the scale. I have a soldering gun that gets that hot.

Yep, exactly one good idea to try.
" carefully"
I've also have a iron , that can be switched between 15 or 30 watts.
I've used it on 15 watt setting, for repairing plastic worms for fishin.
Doesnt burn the plastic on that setting, just melts it.
Maybe its a 5-15 watt. Been awhile since used it

Once again, look at my inlay. I truly don't think you guys know how thin it is.



Heating this would be like wadding it up and tossing it, IMO. I am going for the chemical melt.

Testing....1....2....3

Also, heating it might cause discoloration. But it's always worth a shot, I'm excited to see these attempts!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Once again, look at my inlay. I truly don't think you guys know how thin it is.



Heating this would be like wadding it up and tossing it, IMO. I am going for the chemical melt.

Testing....1....2....3

This is the reason I plan on heating the scale up too.
The scale would not need to be heated to the 120 degrees that is needed to make it pliable. It could go to perhaps 90 degrees... And the inlay would not need to go to the high temp needed to melt room temp celluloid... perhaps just 120 degrees. heating both of the materials up could mean than one or the other doesnt need to reach levels that would destroy it...
Make any sense?

Bondic, not laserbond. Thats the stuff at Home depot. As per what I read, it is a liquid plastic 'weld' that won't cure till you hit it with UV light so is repositionable and cleans off easy too.
Might be worth a look Tom. I think, like you that yours is too thin for heat, and flex or slow cure CA or maybe this uv plastic is the way to go. Google Bondic, there's a few commercials on youtube

Originally Posted by MikeT

This is the reason I plan on heating the scale up too.
The scale would not need to be heated to the 120 degrees that is needed to make it pliable. It could go to perhaps 90 degrees... And the inlay would not need to go to the high temp needed to melt room temp celluloid... perhaps just 120 degrees. heating both of the materials up could mean than one or the other doesnt need to reach levels that would destroy it...
Make any sense?

Ahhhh! Also, warming the scale may make the CA melt in good. That seems logical!