Thread: The Butchered Blade

A great days hunt!
Congrats. Look forward to seeing them brought back to glory.

Originally Posted by WW243

I know this doesn't belong here, but I like this little corner.
Here is a mystery razor I just snatched out of the clouds....My hopes are up...Attachment 218724

That's a beauty Bill! I too was trying for it but dropped off early as a large German blade has caught my eye. Also going for some "natural scaled" blades.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

So I tried my hand at the rewash .... ... .. .
Attachment 218734

Cheers gents.

Always diverse in your endeavours Mike! Thanks for the example. I've debated the method I'd use if I tried it. Looking great!

Originally Posted by FAL

MikeB52, in your post asking for a good masker, I use Nail polish and nail polish remover,
Nice old IXL Steve.

That's the way I've settled on, though it seems like it would be a real challenge to get this way or tape to be very precise in detail.

Originally Posted by outback

So I've got the blade sanded to where I want ... Attachment 218767
Done.
Hmmmm.....
What to do for shoes....

"Off to the drawing board" !!!!

Dammit Mike you're gonna make the rest of us look like slackers! Looks great!
Is there a reason you use scotch tape instead of electrical tape?

Originally Posted by engine46

I was doing ... ... .. .

Attachment 218768

I also figured out what I will use to dress 'er up in...............cocobolo. I think it will look good when done.

Steve I really like the French/oblique tip. My favorite. That's gonna be a beautiful shorty! Nice tail work.

Originally Posted by criswilson10

The easiest way to acid etch is to laser print the negative of your design. Then put the negative onto the metal (black toner to metal). Then use a hair dryer to heat up the paper and melt the toner to the metal. Let it cool and then use a damp sponge to remove the paper. This will leave the metal covered in black toner except for where you want to etch. If you have areas that the toner didn't stick to, you can use a sharpie, nail polish, or paint to cover those spots.
And now the metal is ready to etch with ferric chloride, or muriatic acid, or electro etch with salt, or use a metal dye.

I use all of the above methods for etching electronic boards. Ferric chloride turns everything nearby rust colored. Muriatic acid puts off a lot of chlorine gas. Electro etch requires a good deal of amps to work well.

Thanks for the info! I read about this process before but at the time was too busy/distracted (still am) to absorb the information. Someday.
Anyway I have some blades I was trying to remove the rust from, I'll need to dig up the product I was using, but it made a terrible smell. I hope I didn't hurt myself.
This is such a great reminder that many processes we take in the restoration/customization of blades creates very dangerous environments. ... whether extra dangerous wood dust compared to regular wood dust, or toxic fumes, and many other hazards that can easily be overlooked...
Proper safety precautions! Man I'm sounding like my high school shop teacher.. LOL

Originally Posted by MikeT

Thanks for the info! I read about this process before but at the time was too busy/distracted (still am) to absorb the information. Someday.
Anyway I have some blades I was trying to remove the rust from, I'll need to dig up the product I was using, but it made a terrible smell. I hope I didn't hurt myself.
This is such a great reminder that many processes we take in the restoration/customization of blades creates very dangerous environments. ... whether extra dangerous wood dust compared to regular wood dust, or toxic fumes, and many other hazards that can easily be overlooked...
Proper safety precautions! Man I'm sounding like my high school shop teacher.. LOL

Yeah Mike, I'm glad you understand that when using certain things, it would be a good idea to look up any hazardous information on something you may have never worked with or to look up info on things one may have previously worked with. It is a good idea to check for MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on all types of products one may be unfamiliar with. We had safety meetings where I used to work & had to sign off on these MSDS documents so the company had their asses covered along with the manufacturer. As many of us know & some don't but even certain types of wood give off toxic fumes when working with it.
There is an article on here about working with toxic wood.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...hp/Toxic_Woods

That's a good article. I read it a while back, very informative and I'd suggest it as a must read.
I didn't check on other woods, but the Blackwood is a little off.. a few friends who work with it including myself have found that it also has an increased danger for one's respiratory health. More so than regular woods. In the article it specifies skin and eyes but should include respiratory.
That said, of course all wood dust is very dangerous to ones lungs, just some more than others.
A doctor told me last year that it is an extremely marginalized danger and that construction workers and wood workers damage their lungs irreparably without even knowing it.
That's when I bought a proper respirator. Haven't had a problem since.

Originally Posted by DeObfuscate

So I stopped at a garage sale and chatted up the guy that seemed to be in charge. He had purchased a storage locker through an auction. His brother wandered up, listened to our conversation, and pulled a straight out of his pocket. I gave him ten bucks for a "Gold Monkey" #666. I had swapped phone numbers with them and thought this might cement the relationship. I'm his Razor Guy, if I'd send any coins his way.
Next day I'm headed to my aunts house, so I stopped at an antique shop. Been there before, saw nothing new. couple miles down the highway I stopped again, flea market that has been there too long. The kind where the merch has been sitting so long it's dusty in the slumping bin, the vendors all tired and slumped, too. I asked several folks if they knew anyone selling shaving related products. Following the bread crumbs, found a straight marked $20.
Attachment 218821
Only had $14 in my pocket, but she looked hungry, so we sealed that deal.
Another vendor had half a dozen Gillette DEs. I already have a Fatboy, so I chose what I think is a Slim. Date code K2, not too brassy, smooth operation, twelve bucks.
I assumed my procurement was done for the day. When I got to my aunts, greeted cousins, second cousins, cats & dogs, and hauled my gear into the game room that I sleep in while staying over. Setting on the pool table is this:
Attachment 218822
It was her exhusbands. Now it's mine!
I had a good day.

I've had a few hunts in the wilds like that.. I keep those tucked away in the memory bank for those bad days.

Originally Posted by MikeT

That's a beauty Bill! I too was trying for it but dropped off early as a large German blade has caught my eye. Also going for some "natural scaled" blades.


Always diverse in your endeavours Mike! Thanks for the example. I've debated the method I'd use if I tried it. Looking great!


That's the way I've settled on, though it seems like it would be a real challenge to get this way or tape to be very precise in detail.

Dammit Mike you're gonna make the rest of us look like slackers! Looks great!
Is there a reason you use scotch tape instead of electrical tape?

Steve I really like the French/oblique tip. My favorite. That's gonna be a beautiful shorty! Nice tail work.

Scotch tape wont gum up, or peel off like electric tape. Put it over pins when I file pins down. Keeps from scratching the scales

Originally Posted by outback

Scotch tape wont gum up, or peel off like electric tape. Put it over pins when I file pins down. Keeps from scratching the scales

Okay I'll try it out. I always figured electrical tape because it's so durable. If I've got this right, the electrical tape grabs the metal file and peels up exposing the surface to expose the part intended to be protected..?
Is there a specific brand that's best?

Originally Posted by MikeT

Is there a specific brand that's best?

Scotch, MikeT!! That's the one! I seem thirsty now?

Originally Posted by MikeT

Okay I'll try it out. I always figured electrical tape because it's so durable. If I've got this right, the electrical tape grabs the metal file and peels up exposing the surface to expose the part intended to be protected..?
Is there a specific brand that's best?

Nope ...
Just like the satin over clear .
You can see it where it is , and isnt.
Eaven on metal, it highlights the etchings.

After taping and cutting out around the etch, remove the surrounding tape , buff with dremmel away from edge of tape.

Just a way to protect things....
From our selfs..[emoji1] [emoji1]