Thread: What are you working on?

I have a razor that requires the bluing to be touched up. I am hesitant to unpin to do it. Can you offer advice about your process and the bluing you used?

I've been on a bit of an e-bay bender here right before school starts back. I'm determined this year to live the new mantra I learned from my Aussie friends: "No worries, mate!" Not gonna let the job consume me this year. So here are a few fall projects that will be next up on my bench:

The Engstrom frame-back obviously needs the most hand-work; I may just leave the blade face alone so I don't lose that faint etch. Believe it or not, this is my 1st Swede, though of course I've heard about their legendary steel for years.
The Dubl Duck doesn't need much more than a polish.
The WB FBU I got already cleaned up; she's almost scale-ready. I'm thinking either honey horn with a brass wedge, or paua abalone if I get a wild hair.

More to come on these three.

Now that looks like a fun assortment of blades!
The good thing about those framebacks is that the metal of the frame is easy to work with.

Have fun! Looking forward to seeing the results

Originally Posted by DZEC

I have a razor that requires the bluing to be touched up. I am hesitant to unpin to do it. Can you offer advice about your process and the bluing you used?

Its a cold blueing process, just follow the directions on the bottle. Birchwood & Casey's Super Blue, is what its called.

For best results, make sure all of old blueing is removed, and metal bright and clean. It may take several applications, to get the desired look.

They also make a pen/marker, for touch ups.

WOW!
I th8nk that was one of the longest gaps in this thread. 3 full days!

Been working on my Northfield Rattler for the past few days.





Just the usual. Unpinn, clean n flatten the scales, sand and a soak in neats foot oil.

The blade took a lot of elbow grease, with steel wool n 3M, Emory on a oily rag, Never Dull n 3M, then polished by hand with Flitz. Pinned with silver nickle rod, and Austin's silver nickle rosettes.







It took everything inside me to keep from putting sandpaper to this one, there's a bunch of fine pitting on the blade, but all I had to do was look at how thin the grind was, and think how I sanded my first restore, to foil.



Nope..!!! Ain't doing it.!!

To the hones, and a test shave in store for tomorrow.

Originally Posted by DZEC

I have a razor that requires the bluing to be touched up. I am hesitant to unpin to do it. Can you offer advice about your process and the bluing you used?

I have used the blueing pen that outback posted for touch ups as well as complete reblueing without removing the scales. It's important to have the steel very clean before you start and wipe it down with alcohol. Then use some masking tape on the heel of the blade so that you get a nice clean line. Then just use the marker on the area to be blued. After a few minutes use a toothbrush under running water to remove the oxidation, dry it off and repeat. It will take several application's to get it dark and even. After the last application you want to be sure to remove all of the oxidation and blueing chemical to prevent further oxidation. You'll want to let it air dry for a day or two or you can dry the pivot out with a hair dryer.

That looks great Mike! I've made the mistake of too much sanding too, a very good reminder, thank you.
Also B.J. and Mike thank you for the bluing info.
I'm trying to take the time to write these lessons down in my notebook when you guys post them.. very helpful!

Organizational skills are definitely NOT my strongpoint. Lol

To add to the blueing process, always put a thin coat of oil over the blueing, once finished with the last application, and its dry. This is part of the curing process, as it sits over the next day. I prefer to use Hoppes #9 gun solvent.

Wow, Mike-That rattler with a barber's notch is a beauty, and my kind of razor. Well done! And I like Austin's custom collars too.