Thread: What are you working on?

I saw someone list wine cork as a good tool to have and was confused. Best I came up with was for major a guard for the edge and was thinking "wouldn't rubber tubing work better". You're idea is much smarter.

I will sort of feel like a cat that plays with the box more than the toy, though. "you made this nice romantic dinner and you just want to play with the cork!" haha.

If you cut the bevel off one end of the cork it makes it a lot easier to sand the stabilizer area.

The cork is used for sanding. You can wrap sandpaper around it because it is shaped similar to the grind and evens out the sanding across the blade. That way you minimize the disruption of the grind and keep from altering the bevel as much as possible.
Look back one page at post #18880

Finished with my Fredrick project and now it's time to soak some stones.

I'm pretty sure this was a near wedge reground to around 1/2 hollow. I finished the scales to 1K with some polish and the blade to 600 with polish. I wound up having to paint the letters a second time as the oil soak removed the first try I was wondering if that would be an issue, but figured a 50/50 shot...now I know. The only thing not original to this razor is the brass rod and a little paint.





There's still some light pitting here and there, but it came out better than I though it would. Looking forward to the shave.

Originally Posted by JellyJar

If you cut the bevel off one end of the cork it makes it a lot easier to sand the stabilizer area.

The synthetic corks have a pretty hard 90° on the end anyway. If you use a synthetic you don't have to cut the end off.

Nice work, JJ

Oh yeah, I meant to say that also. Top shelf jelly.

Thanks Outback/PaulFLUS.

I'm still nowhere near the "master of horn" title, but I feel like I've made some positive steps forward. The photos are a bit unforgiving, it actually looks much better in the "live". There are things I see in the photos that I really can't see live.

The staining near the pivot is weird. It's not on the inside or outside, but in the horn. I know how to get rid of it, as well as some of the tiny de lams, but I'm kind of chicken to dig in with the dremmel. I also have been leaning towards retaining some of the original history/character and making functionality a priority.

Of course I also need to thank all of you for your advice etc. If it weren't for this site I'd be floundering a bit with heel correction/hiding spine wear....the list goes on.

I'm really hoping I can do the edge justice because the feel and balance of this razor has me pretty exited. This may become one of my favorite blades.

Finished up some camelbone scales for my 14 Filarmonica Sub Cero razor. Razor came without its original scales, so decided to dress her up in camelbone since they are slightly over 6”. Normally, I round the edges of scales but decided to try a flatter look with a 45 degree slant on sides. Found it to be much harder to do this way but it was fun trying to eyeball it to get it right. Hats off to those that did it this way back in the day. Fun trying to get it right. Wedge is dark horn that should set off the White camelbone scales nicely. Hope to pin it up tonight. Still debating on how to handle the shorter heel vs blade tip. 1”.5mm difference. Could breadknife it to consistent length. Will just be an everyday shaver. Appreciate comments on this. Thanks, Austin

The scales are looking good. Flat with a chamfered edge is tricky. I start with a template and then do the cut out on the table router, but that does leave a little bit chatter, that cleans up very easily with a file. You are way past that now. If it were going into my rotation I would leave the taper.